Course Overview & Introduction
This extensive Pokémon Cards 101 Master Class is a compilation of educational videos edited together, providing a bird's-eye view of the entire hobby for beginners and returning collectors. The host, Oliver, has been collecting his whole life and built this platform to help new collectors navigate the modern Pokémon TCG landscape. For a foundational overview before diving into these advanced topics, see our Pokémon Cards 101: Complete Beginner's Guide to Collecting & Valuing.
Note: Skip to any chapter using timestamps, watch at 1.5x speed, or ask questions in comments. The information is up-to-date as of the publication date.
Understanding Modern Pokémon Card Products
Booster Packs & What's Inside
Modern booster packs differ significantly from vintage packs:
- Guaranteed contents: Each pack contains 1 Holo rare and 2 Reverse Holo cards
- Hit chances: Any of these slots can be "upgraded" to a higher rarity
- Key rule of thumb: Black → Silver → Gold → 1 Star → 2 Star → 3 Star rarity progression
The Rarity Scale (Modern Era)
| Rarity Symbol | Name | Description | |---------------|------|-------------| | Black Circle | Common | Basic Pokémon, frequently pulled | | Black Diamond | Uncommon | Slightly rarer, usually 2 per pack | | Black Star | Rare | Guaranteed in every pack | | Two Black Stars | Double Rare | EX Pokémon, high value | | Gold Star (filled) | Illustration Rare | Full-art cards with extended artwork | | Two Gold Stars | Special Illustration Rare | Most valuable modern cards, textured artwork | | Three Gold Stars | Hyper Rare | Gold foil cards, highest rarity in packs |
All Pokémon TCG Products Explained
Essential Products:
- Booster Pack: Single pack with random cards
- Elite Trainer Box (ETB): 9-11 packs + dice, sleeves, and promo card (best for beginners)
- Booster Bundle: 6 packs, no extra materials (best for pure ripping)
- Booster Box: 36 packs, best price-per-pack (not sold retail)
Specialty Products:
- Collection Boxes: Themed boxes with promos, figures, or pins
- Ultra Premium Collection (UPC): High-end box with metal cards, playmat, and premium promos
- Build & Battle Box: For learning the TCG, includes deck-building materials
- Trainer's Toolkit: For competitive players, includes energy, sleeves, and guide
The ETB Advantage: Marketing psychology shows ETBs are designed as "insurance products" that appeal to all three collector types (card collectors, TCG players, sealed collectors). They stay on shelves longer because they're the fallback option when other products sell out.
Setting Your Collecting Goals
The Collecting Flowchart
This video encourages self-reflection on why you collect:
Path 1: Love of the Hobby
- True passion for cards, artwork, and nostalgia
- Opening packs = gambling mechanic (be aware of addiction risks)
- Most expensive method; consider switching to singles after initial packs
Path 2: Value-Based Collecting
- Building net worth through Pokémon cards
- Three paths: sealed product holding, speculating, or flipping
- Time is the key factor, consider opportunity cost
Four Primary Collecting Goals
-
Personal Collection (50% of collectors voted this)
- Collect specific Pokémon, artists, or themes
- Examples: One card of every Pokémon, all cards by a favorite illustrator
- Most sustainable and fulfilling approach
-
Master Set Collecting
- Complete every card in a specific expansion
- Requires discipline; buy singles, avoid pack chasing
- Start with Base Set (102 cards) or modern 151 set
-
Grail Card Target
- Focus on one ultra-rare card (e.g., 1st Edition Charizard)
- "How can I afford it?" mindset vs. "I can't afford it"
- Build collection value over years to trade up
-
Monetary Goals
- Collecting for investment (college funds, retirement)
- Requires discipline, experience, and upfront capital
- Example: Team Up booster box went from $100 to $10,000+ in 6 years
Master Set vs. Grandmaster Set Explained
Master Set (Required):
- Total number of cards in the set
- All Secret Rares (cards numbered beyond the set total)
- Reverse Holo variants (every common, uncommon, rare)
- Promos are optional (belong to Black Star Promo set)
Grandmaster Set (Everything):
- Entire Master Set
- All unnumbered promos and stamp variants
- Every Holo pattern variant
- Metal cards, box toppers, jumbo cards
- Example: Base Set Grandmaster would require 4 print runs + Trainer Decks A/B
Expansion Sets & Structure
Era-Based System
Each mainline video game generation creates a new TCG era:
- Original Series (Base Set - Skyridge)
- EX Series (Ruby & Sapphire era)
- Diamond & Pearl Series (Pattern established using game titles)
- Scarlet & Violet Era (Current - 2023+)
Regular vs. Special Sets
Mainline Expansions:
- Released every 2-3 months (5-6 per year)
- Follow predictable schedule
- Include booster boxes available at retail online
Special Sets (Holiday Sets):
- Nostalgia-heavy (like Pokémon 151)
- No booster boxes, forced to buy collection boxes
- Stay in print longer (reprints continue for 12+ months)
- Larger sets with bigger chase cards
Key Differences (Japan vs. International):
- Japanese sets release 2 months earlier
- Multiple Japanese releases are combined into one English set
- Example: Surging Sparks = Paradise Dragona + Super Electric Breaker
Card Grading 101
Why Grade Cards?
- Resale value: 10s sell for significantly more than 9s
- Authentication: Confirms card is genuine
- Preservation: Encased in protective slab
- Memory preservation: Grade pulled cards with family/friends
Pre-Grading Checklist (The Four C's)
-
Centering (Front)
- Max 45/55 ratio for PSA 10
- Perfect 50/50 required for CGC Pristine 10 or Beckett Black Label
-
Edges
- Check for fraying, rough cuts (manufacturing defects)
- White card stock showing = whitening
-
Corners
- Should be round, no white showing
- Whitening = immediate grade reduction
-
Surface
- No scratches, dents, or creases
- Texture must be consistent (use magnifying glass)
Major Grading Companies
| Company | Specialty | Grade Above 10 | Resale Value | |---------|-----------|----------------|--------------| | PSA | Industry standard, highest resale | No | Highest | | CGC | Pristine 10 label | Yes (Pristine 10) | Moderate | | Beckett (BGS) | Black Label perfection | Yes (Perfect 10) | Moderate-High |
Important: Grading is paying for an opinion. Human graders can vary; cracking and resubmitting is common but costs more.
Card Valuation Methods
How to Value Any Pokémon Card
Step 1: Identify the card's name, number (e.g., 60/64), and condition.
Step 2: Use eBay Sold Listings (not active listings):
- Filter to "Sold Items"
- Turn off "Graded" to compare raw prices
- Average 5-10 recent sales
Step 3: Cross-reference with TCGplayer for market data:
- Check "Market Price" for average trends
- Note: TCGplayer prices exclude shipping
Tricky Examples:
- Stamp variants: Celebrations Blastoise (stamped) = $7-10 vs. Base Set Blastoise = $50+
- Graded by lesser-known companies: Mint-graded cards sell at ~60% of PSA equivalents
- Shadowless vs. 1st Edition: Must include in search query
Card Protection & Storage
Binder Types: Three-Ring vs. Modern
Three-Ring Binder Risks:
- Pinching: If binder closes suddenly, pages get caught between rings and cover
- Dragging: Pages drag cards over rings when turning
- Insert/Remove: Pages can slide out of rings and damage cards
Modern Binders (Recommended):
- Side-loaded pockets
- Zipper closure
- Soft interior (protects from dust/dirt)
- No rings to cause damage
Gloves vs. No Gloves
The verdict: Wash your hands, don't wear gloves.
Reasons against gloves:
- Reduced tactile feedback (can't feel fakes)
- Gloves are rougher than clean skin under microscope
- Can snag card corners if ill-fitting
- Professionals (museum conservators, archaeologists) don't use gloves for paper items
When to wear gloves:
- Handling old, dirty collections from unknown sources
- Medical conditions or extremely rough hands
Top Loaders vs. Card Savers (Semi-Rigid)
| Feature | Top Loaders | Card Savers (Semi-Rigid) | |---------|-------------|--------------------------| | Best for | Display & storage | Shipping & grading submissions | | Protection | Rigid frame, gap allows dust/card movement | Snug fit, no card movement | | Storage compatibility | More binder/box options | Limited, specialized binders | | Recommended use | Always use sleeves inside | PSA requires these for submissions |
Pro tips:
- Double-sleeve for top loaders to prevent rattling
- Store top loaders upside down to prevent debris entry
- Use pull tabs (sticky notes) for easy card removal
Advanced Topics
PVC vs. Polypropylene Sleeves
- PVC (vinyl): Breaks down over 10+ years, becomes brittle, secretes oil
- Polypropylene (PP): Inert, doesn't break down, industry standard
- Check recycling symbol: #5 with "PP" = safe; #3 with "V" = PVC (avoid for long-term storage)
- Pokémon Official Sleeves: Confirmed PVC and acid-free by official website
Whitening Prevention & Facts
Whitening occurs when card edges sustain damage exposing the white card stock. It cannot be fixed, only hidden (which is unethical).
Causes:
- Poor factory cuts (dull blades)
- Mishandling (pocket storage, rubber bands)
- Moisture absorption (softens edges)
- Improper storage (loose in boxes)
Prevention:
- Always sleeve cards
- Handle edges gently when inserting into pockets
- Store in climate-controlled environment
- Use proper binders (avoid loose boxes)
Authentication: The Rip Test Alternatives
Do NOT rip your cards! Use these non-destructive methods:
-
Black Layer Test: Look at the card's edge under magnification, a thin black graphite laminate layer should be visible (this laminates the card stock together)
-
Light Test: Shine phone light behind the card, no light should pass through (the graphite layer blocks it)
-
Visual Comparison: Compare against verified listings on eBay or TCGplayer for font, spelling, energy costs, and hollow patterns
Note: The rip test works for Pokémon, Magic, Flesh & Blood, and Lorcana, but NOT for Yu-Gi-Oh!, One Piece, Dragon Ball, Digimon, or Universus.
Market Dynamics & Trends
The 2020-2021 Boom
- Pokémon Go (2016) brought people back
- COVID lockdowns created perfect storm:
- People rediscovered old collections
- Extra money from stimulus checks
- Supply chain disruptions
- Cards hit unprecedented prices
- Physical fights over booster packs at retail stores
Current State
- Market has mostly recovered but remains volatile
- Hype cycles happen occasionally (products sell out temporarily)
- Pattern always normalizes as reprints arrive
- Special sets like 151 stay in print for 12+ months
Buying Tips
- Best deals: Booster boxes online (lowest price per pack)
- Safe retailers: PokemonCenter.com (official), GameStop, Target
- Avoid: AliExpress, Etsy, Temu (high counterfeit risk)
- Fake pack indicators: Triangle cuts on top/bottom, poor print quality, missing texture on foil cards
- Shipping hack: Message sellers to ask about combined shipping discounts
Final Advice from Oliver: Start with a specific goal, collect your favorite Pokémon, complete one manageable set, or target one grail card. Don't try to buy everything; the Pokémon Company profits from FOMO. Set a goal, stick to it, and enjoy the journey! Our Pokémon Cards 101: Complete Beginner's Guide to Collecting & Valuing can help you get started with the basics if you need more foundational guidance.
welcome to my first Pokémon cards 101 Master Class My Name is Oliver and I've been collecting Pokémon cards my whole
life a couple years ago I decided to dedicate the majority of my time to building an educational platform for
Pokemon card collectors you may notice that the audio quality and video format change throughout this class this is
essentially a super cut of all of my educational videos edited together now I have gone through and cut out anything
that isn't relevant today so all the information is up to date I'm also going to jump in after each video and
summarize key points but you might have to suffer through some of my early videos where I wasn't as comfortable on
camera I've added chapters with timestamp so feel free to skip around ask questions in the comments or even
watch at 1.5 time speed if that's better for you okay let's get started the very first video we're going to watch was
created for beginners and acts as a sort of bird's eye view of the Pokemon card hobby if you're returning to the Hobby
after a Hiatus it can be confusing let me break it all down for you starting with booster packs so this is a booster
pack today I've got a$1 19.99 pack here for comparison they look similar but the cards inside are a lot different the
cards are a lot shinier now and unlike the original packs each booster will contain a guaranteed Holo and two
reverse Holo Cards and any any of these can be swapped out for a higher Rarity oh and by the way the Rarity scale is
quite a bit different in an old pack the hit was a rare represented by a star and if you were lucky you could pull a
hollow rare today rare is actually on the lower end of the Rarity scale yeah there's a whole scale of Rarities now it
can be confusing but all you need to remember is black silver gold and one star two star three star I have a whole
in-depth guide on the Rarity system so feel free to watch it later but the key takeaway is that special illustration
rares marked with two gold stars are the most valuable on the secondary Market they have detailed artwork and texture
on the face these are the cards that everyone chases after a common question I get is which booster pack is the best
to open and the answer lies in expansion sets there are a lot of expansion sets a new one is released about every 3 months
so over the past 25 years that's a lot of sets it'll make more sense if we look at the structure we have different
blocks of the TCG that span more than a year this is sometimes called an era for example we're in the scarlet and violet
era right now but this will change soon because most of these errors coincide with the release of the video games and
they also come with a unique game game mechanic you might remember Pokémon EX from the ex era in 2003 and they've
actually returned a few times over the years but we've also had GX V and more the booster pack we just opened says
scarlet and violet but it also has a set name 151 in this case new sets contain new cards mostly sometimes they reprint
cards for the TCG or just to cash in on Nostalgia like chariz here for example each set includes a few Chase cards and
these are the sought after ones that stand Above the Rest usually going for a couple hundred bucks on the secondary
Market the biggest Chase Card though of the modern era is this Umbreon Vmax each set has a set symbol so you
could quickly identify which set a card was from based on the symbol but they recently removed these and now use an
abbreviated version of the set name so there's a lot less confusion there are a lot of resources
and apps you can use to see which cards belong to which set some websites I like are Pokemon cards.com and the official
database pokemon.com regarding apps I like decks and poke collector now I'm not
affiliated or sponsored with any of these they're just what I like to use and if you're returning to the Hobby you
might feel the urge to collect every card from a set we call this a master set just a warning this is harder to do
today than it was in the early 2000s sets are bigger and cards are harder to pull plus we have all kinds of variants
and promos which are optional and would lead you into something I call a grandm set now I do have a whole video
dedicated to master sets so you can learn more there if you want to master set one of the original sets like Bas
set for example buying singles is best the booster packs are just too expensive now but you should also consider 151
this is a modern set that includes only the original 151 Kanto Pokemon it's kind of like a new updated base set and by
the way if you do decide to start a master set collecting all the cards just by opening boosters is just no longer
feasible you'll spend two to three times more open as many boosters as you want but then buy the cars you're missing and
you'll save yourself tons of money I promise next you're probably going to be collecting promo cards now this isn't
something that has actually changed all that much remember black star promos like the ones you got from the movie
theater they still do these although the sets are much bigger they don't belong to one of the regular expansion sets
they actually have their own set that in spany entire era of the TCG for example the scarlet and violet black star promos
started when scarlet and violet came out like the video games which is when the scarlet and violet set came out and it
will end when the scarlet and violet era ends when the new games come out it's one big set that's drip fed over a year
or two now some promos can be hard to find and become quite expensive this gray hat Pikachu was available to
customers who visited the van go Museum in Amsterdam unfortunately this turned into
a pretty large Fiasco involving scalpers and corrupt employees and produced headlines across the world and yes
people actually bought plane tickets to Amsterdam just to get one of these cards this was a holing and the Pokémon
company issued several statements about it eventually pulling the card from the museum and offering it through the
Pokemon Center the official store which we will talk about later and even some GameStop locations so this dropped the
price as Supply increased but 99% of promos are going to be found in bundles with products that you can find on the
store shelves so you don't really have to worry about that collection boxes etbs and blister packs will have promos
but there are dozens and dozens thousands of products now this video would be way too long if I went through
every single TCG product and explained each one in depth but luckily I've already done that
so once again I'll link the video here and also down below the like button but the tricky thing about promo cards is
that they're only available for a short amount of time and some of them like the Pikachu with gray felt hat can be tricky
to obtain in this case you'll have to visit the secondary market now back in the day the secondary Market was
basically bringing your binder onto the school bus and trading cards but today it's much
less wholesome so the secondary Market ranges from $1 listings all the way up to the six and seven figure deals that
we see on social media these highle deals are typically done privately or at auction but for Norm like us we go to
eBay and TCG player we'll get into this more when we talk about buying and selling cards but first we have to
discuss how we got here so collecting Pokemon cards was a pretty small hobby for a pretty long time after the initial
launch of Pokemon died out the franchise existed on a small but healthy scale but then in
2016 Pokémon go launched and and this caused a lot of people to come back Pokemon cards flew off the shelves and
the demand reached an all-time high however this was nothing compared to co to the pandemic this was a Kind of
Perfect Storm people were in lockdown isolated in their homes this means that digging through your attic or basement
and rediscovering your old 1999 Pokémon bind was actually really calm lots of people were doing this and in addition
to this everyone had extra money from government checks and also skipping their annual vacations and no longer
going out to eat with friends everything exploded collectibles in general absolutely skyrocketed cards were
hitting market prices that had never even been dreamed of because it all comes down to supply and demand
especially at the time when the supply chain was barely moving people were literally fighting over booster packs at
Walmart thankfully we've somewhat recovered from that embarrassing moment but things do get a little
sketchy from time to time be prepared and we haven't even touched on grading yet basically you can
send your cards to a company and they will authenticate it and give it a grade based on its condition they encase it in
a plastic slab and ship it back to you sounds silly and it is but it's extremely woven into the Collectibles
culture grading increases the value of your card especially if it gets a 10 the price gap between a 9 and a 10 is huge
because most collectors want tens which leads us to investors you probably already know about this and
this these are vintage Pokémon cards that now cost the same as a house however back in 1999 you could pull a
first edition Charizard for a $3 pack if you got lucky if not you could buy one from a friend for 15 bucks people want
to get in on the great returns however the golden age has passed great returns can still be had but it's
unlikely to ever hit that level ever again remember Pokémon cards are Collectibles so they actually gain value
and this creates an opportunity for people to make money once an expansion set is out of print it starts to get
more expensive people will buy sealed product and hold on to it until they make a great return now to be clear I'm
not judging anyone here I'm just letting you know what's up in today's Collectibles culture and if you find
this intimidating you don't have to worry about it you could just collect cards but there are opportunities for
collectors for example if you pull an expensive card but don't really care for it you can grade it sell it make a small
profit allowing you to upgrade to the card you actually desire but if you want to get a card graded you're going to
have to take care of it for example this first edition Charizard you had when you were a kid if you kept it in mint
condition it could sell for a lot of money but if it's in poor condition it's worth a lot less now if you're
collecting cards you're going to need sleeves these are little pockets made of plastic that you put your card into we
have different sizes the two most common are standard and slim sometimes called perfect fit or inner sleeves either is
fine it's just a preference thing but you can also use both and double sleeve your cards after this you have a few
options top loaders are common these are also called rigid or hard sleeves and they're basically just a bigger thicker
version of a sleeve but no longer flexible there are also card Savers sometimes called semi- rigid sleeves
these are flexible but they hold your card in a way that will prevent it from shifting these are especially used
during shipping now you can find binders that fit top loaders and even card Savers if that's your style otherwise
regular binders fit sleeved cards now it's sinful to use any of this without first using a sleeve by the way if you
buy just one thing by sleeves and everyone has different standards when it comes to sleeving cards despite my
channel name I don't actually sleeve every card I usually sleeve anything Hollow and leave nonone Hollow cards
naked but that's a personal choice and you can do whatever the heck you want now back in the day we used three ring
binders with clear pages but these are out the general consensus around these three ring binders is that they can harm
your cards I've experienced this myself in addition to this top loaded Pages means cards can fall out of the binder
if held upside down today we have an improved design these binders offer much more for card protection the pockets are
side loaded most have zippers and the soft interior prevents the pages from getting dull these are just so much more
better than the old playground binders that would collect dust and dirt potentially hurting the value of your
cards let's move on to how to value a card all right so maybe you dug up your old collection or you have some new
cards you want to know the value of let's jump on to eBay really quick eBay isn't the only Marketplace to buy and
sell Pokémon cards but it's the biggest first I'm going to search for the card name that is the Pokemon's name followed
by its card number at the bottom in this case Pikachu and the number is 60 of 64 then we're going to enter the
condition of the card based on this scale and I'll drop a link below the like button if you want to look into
this condition guide a little more in this case I'm going to search LP which means lightly played based on some of
the whitening on the edges of this card here are the search results so we can see that we searched the right card
there's one more thing to do though I'm going to only fill to sold listings this way we can see what people are actually
paying for the card not just their asking price now you can buy or sell cards on eBay just make sure that this
seller has good feedback and make sure you look at the images closely and you'll most likely have a good
experience and yes sometimes you'll find fade cards but eBay has an authenticity guarantee and I've always gotten my
money back a quick tip here that has saved me money combine shipping when possible and if you don't see an option
for it in your cart just message the seller sometimes shipping makes the card no longer worth it but reaching out to
the seller Works they almost always are willing to work with you another huge Marketplace is TCG player which is
actually owned by eBay and TCG player is a great resource too if you want to look at card values over time you get these
neat little Gra and average prices you can watch and pay attention to if you want to make Pokémon
card shopping more of an experience check out local card shows there is one near you here you can walk around and
browse an insane collection of cards you're probably going to see stuff you didn't know existed or things you
otherwise would never see in person and you'll get the chance to meet new people my friend Coupe does this and uploads
his whole day to YouTube so you can get a handed and honest look into the world of card vendors he also gives cards to
kids for free which is hard not to love if you want to buy new cards like fresh booster packs then the official website
pokemoncenter.com is going to be the best place to start however they are sold out often anything after this is
going to be at your own risk but most of the time GameStop Target places like that are going to be safe avoid
AliExpress Etsy and Teemu guys if Pokemon cards are extremely cheap they're fake okay fake
cards often come from fake booster packs a quick way to tell if a booster pack is fake are these triangle cuts on the top
and bottom now not all fake packs have the triangle Cuts but it's a good place to start fake cards often have typos and
po print quality and just feel bad remember how some new cards have texture on them fake cards often mess this up or
they just skip the texture Al together a good first step in identifying a fake card is to just Google search the card
compare the images to your card and look for obvious mistakes so the key takeaways of this video are everything
is different expansion sets can get confusing but I have a whole video on that that we will watch shortly the
secondary Market drives all the prices and a lot of people take advantage of that and buy sleeves if you don't have
sleeves buy some and if you're ready pick up top loaders and a binder as well now I skimmed over a lot of Concepts in
that video and we will be taking a deeper look at them later in this course such as Master sets card value and
grading the next video covers all the different kinds of Pokémon card products you'll find in stores and what's
included in each of them okay it's kind of confusing especially if you're returning to the Hobby after a
long Hiatus here is a crash course on all Pokemon TCG products and how they work back in the day we had decks and
booster packs to supplement your decks and that's pretty much it but today we have new products coming out almost
weekly first we have the booster pack which hasn't changed much the cards inside have though booster pack
composition changes every now and then but the basic principle is still there mostly non Hollow relatively common
cards and a chance at a very cool rare card sometimes maybe even two very cool rare cards and they each come with a
single code card these are for the Pokémon TCG mobile app if you scan the QR code you redeem a booster pack in the
game another product you'll see on the shelves is the Elite Trainer Box but most of us just call it an ETB for short
now each set is going to have its own ETB and it will only contain cards from that set these are popular because they
offer a decent price per booster pack as well as a handful of other goodies you get 10 booster packs a bunch of supplies
a promo card and the Box itself which comes in handy etbs are a popular choice for sealed collectors due to their
visual appeal and I would actually argue that this is the best product to buy if you're a beginner maybe you're a
collector or a TCG player maybe you don't know yet this product offers a little bit of both and and you can find
special Pokémon Center exclusive etbs on the official website right now they come with an extra booster pack so a total of
11 and a second promo card with a Pokémon Center stamp on it there's also upcs which we'll visit in the next
section and recently they started making these booster bundles this is a box of six booster packs and nothing else these
are good if you don't want all that extra stuff and the packaging can double as a cheap deck box too if you're in a
mini tins contain two booster packs Pokeball tins contain three booster packs and the regular tins come with
five boosters plus a promo card sometimes you'll find tins exclusive to a set so they only contain cards from
that set but they usually have assorted packs inside from previous sets next we have collection boxes these come in any
size or shape many of them have a unique theme for example we've seen Charizard boxes or EV lution box
and they all come with promo cards but some come with other stuff like figures posters binders or pins now you might be
curious about booster boxes these are not sold at retail stores you can't find it at Target you can't find it at
Walmart back in the day these were meant exclusively for game shops to purchase and then sell the boosters individually
but now anyone can just order them online and this is the lowest price per booster pack you will find these are a
popular choice for Pokémon card investors since they quickly gain value once the set is out of print theme decks
are decks with a theme after all there is a game to be played with these cards these are preassembled Decks that should
be pretty easy to understand and use the Pokémon and trainer cards have nice Synergy and there will be enough energy
cards to support different strategies and similarly build and battle boxes are focused on building a deck however these
do not contain decks they just offer the necessary cards from the new set to start building strategies and play
around with the new release these also contain four booster packs unless you get the buildin battle Stadium version
which does Supply you with everything you need to play a game for two people actually these are great choice for
anyone who's wanting to learn the TCG so those are the main products that you're going to find for pretty much every
expansion but there's some more that come at different times of the year this all started with the video games and to
this day the video games still lead the franchise previously we were in the sword and shield era but once scarlet
and violet released for the Nintendo switch the TCG moved into the scarlet and violet era or block of the TCG so
all of the products being released right now will say scarlet and violet on them and in a year or two they'll say
something else we usually get a new expansion every 2 to 3 months so we get five or six per year most of them will
be Mainline expansions but we typically get one special set around the holiday season and I'll come back to this with
the release of these Mainline expansions every 2 to 3 months they'll be accompanied by etbs tins decks blister
packs and everything else I already mentioned the holiday season is when we get more interesting products we get
collection boxes that cash in on Nostalgia actual holiday products like the trick-or trade bundles and holiday
calendars and an ultra premium product now we only saw the introduction of Ultra Premium collections or upcs for
short a few years ago these are big expensive boxes with very collectible cards and these are marketed more to the
adult collectors such as myself upcs are like high-end etbs they usually contain a handful of booster packs a playmat
sleeves high quality TCG supplies like metal dice desirable promos and sometimes metal cards by the way there
are only a few metal cards and they all came from upcs these ones are fake the holiday season usually brings some other
products too like the Pokémon TCG classic or this premium Charizard product now I said I would come back to
the special set so these Mainline expansion sets have a tight schedule and we know what to expect from them they're
like the bread and butter of the TCG they reveal new card types Rarities game mechanics mechanics but special sets
sometimes called holiday sets are a whole different pocket monster Pokémon 151 you're probably aware of this set
because you know it's only the most successful set ever this set features only Generation 1 Pokémon from Kanto
it's pretty typical for a special set to capitalize on '90s Nostalgia many of us are in our 30s now with disposable
income so they take advantage of that there are three main things to note about special sets first they kind of
Break The Rules you'll notice that you can't buy a booster box of the Pokémon 151 set in English they pretty much
force you into buying these collection boxes with the exception of the booster bundle I mentioned earlier second the
set itself will be geared towards collectors we're talking huge Chase Cards Limited promo cards that will be
hard to find and big sets that cost a pretty penny to complete lastly the special sets usually get reprints these
products sell they literally sell out like crazy even a year after release Mainline expansions might hang around
for a few months but special sets will be available for a year or more with Costco rolling in new pallets on a
weekly basis one of the biggest most powerful tools the Pokemon franchise has is promotional cards so this might be a
little bit of an oversimplification but any cards that you find outside of an expansion set are going to be promo
cards promo cards can be expensive or cheap really cool with unique exclusive artwork or pretty underwhelming they can
be anything and can be found anywhere but most of the time you'll find them on the shelves imprisoned behind a plastic
barrier this topic goes pretty deep so I'll probably make a promo cards explained video in the future but for
now let's just break them down into two categories black star promos and other promos so to keep track of promo cards
they actually have their own set these are called Black Star promos and it's a set that expands across the entire era
or block of the TCG so for example scarlet and violet Blackstar promos started with these little guys numbered
one two and three and the final promo will be before the next video game releases and starts the cycle over again
but there are promo cards that don't belong to the Blackstar promo set these are also found in products and again
I'll use Pokemon 151 as an example the Alakazam EX collection box came with three promos Alakazam which is a
Blackstar promo but also Abra and Kadabra which are not black star promos these are cards from the main set but
now they have a different Hol pattern these kinds of promo cards have been a thing for a very long time they're kind
of hard to keep track of because they don't have a home like Blackstar promos do and in the same category I would put
stamped cards like this GameStop Charmander this is identical to the mainline Charmander in every way but it
has a GameStop stamp on it and it's not a Blackstar promo the McDonald's Pokemon cards are kind of weird they are a set
like they actually have their own numbering system and booster packs but to me they feel more like promo cards
because well it's really more of a promotion campaign premium tournament collections tend to pop up every once in
a while they feature a trainer character instead of a Pokémon and come with a nice promo card featuring that trainer
seven assorted booster packs and game supplies and it all gets packed into this cute little milk carton inspired
box lunch boxes officially called collector's chests are a seasonal product that is marketed to the younger
consumer and contains five booster packs plus some stick a coin a notebook and a mini binder the trainers toolkit is
specifically for those who are into the TCG much like the pre-built decks or build-in battle kits they offer much
more value to someone who's going to be playing the game in person these toolkits come with only four booster
packs but a ton of TCG stuff like energy card sleeves and a deck builder guide oh and an official TCG rule book okay if
that was overwhelming you're not alone it was overwhelming to make believe believe me etbs or Elite Trainer boxes
are going to be the best product for beginners since it offers a little bit of everything but if that product isn't
right for you there should be something else if you want just packs try a booster box or a booster bundle but etbs
are by far the most popular in fact the next video is a deep dive on the ETB and why it's positioned as the best Pokemon
product but it's also sort of a sequel to the last video going further into product design and how different
products fit into different marketing tactics the Pokémon company uses various methods of marketing psychology on us
and I think it's important to know how we're being manipulated into buying Pokemon cards this is an Elite Trainer
Box but everyone just says ETB for short if you're returning to the Hobby you might be wondering what is so special
about the ETB everyone's talking about them but they don't really seem to be that good so what's the deal well it has
a special promo card which can sometimes be very desirable these days the promo is almost always a beautiful
illustration rare and if you purchase a Pokemon Center exclusive ETB from the official website it comes with an extra
promo but this one has an exclusive stamp and these often sell on the secondary market for more than the ETB
itself they also come with dice counters and energy cards these are for the TCG and while they're nice to have many of
us don't actually use use them oh and these dividers which are really really nice but they never really give you
enough the sleeves can sometimes be cool or even desirable if they have a cool design or popular Pokemon on them each
ETB is going to have a mascot Pokemon who's going to be on the front of the Box the booklet and sometimes the
sleeves and people don't talk about this often enough but it also comes with a booklet that shows us all the cards in
the set furthermore it has a key so you know which cards come as reverse holos and regular holos it's incredibly useful
even to a veteran collector like myself and of course we have booster packs etbs will always come with booster packs
exclusive to that set back in the sword and shield era etbs came with eight booster packs but if it's a scarlet and
violet product it'll have nine and you may have noticed that the Pokemon Center etbs are a little bit more expensive
well they each come with two extra booster packs so a sword and shield ETB is going to have a total of 10 and then
a scarlet and violet ETB is going to have a total of 11 but only the scarlet and violet ones come with that extra
promo card with the exclusive stamp on it and the contents of an ETB can sometimes change a little bit like for
example the Pokémon go ETB had a deck box in it but we've covered the basics but that's just regular TCG junk and if
you really want the sleeves or like the box or something you can always buy it on eBay for pretty cheap so why is
everyone so obsessed with etps well it's the value proposition think of it like this every product on the Shelf is an
offer the Pokemon company is making you an offer in exchange for your hard-earned money now we're going to
come back to this but I want you to think about the ETB and what it offers you in other words why would you buy an
ETB I ran a quick poll on my channel and 2third of you have purchased an ETB in the past and if you Google this question
why do people buy etbs you'll find multiple Reddit threads asking this very question and the overwhelming answer
is because they're the only thing available it's the only thing that people can find and this will be
different based on where you are in the world but a lot of Pokemon TCG products sell out and they're hard to find even
online like booster bundles or collection boxes but for some reason the ETB is always there and usually at a
pretty good price anecdotally I can confirm this my local GameStop's usually pretty good at staying stocked up but if
I go to my local Walmart it's almost always empty with a few etbs scattered on the shelves now one reason for this
is that they make a lot of them if you're a returning customer to your local retailer you might notice that e
TBS tend to stay stocked up longer than the other products for example shining Fates came out in 2021 but in
2023 it was still being restocked at Walmart even though the rest of The Shining Fates products were long gone
and out of print but if etbs are as amazing as everyone says why aren't they the first to sell out well the answer is
in the rest of the product line a booster bundle offers six packs and nothing else no fluff the value
proposition here is cheap booster packs and that's it the trainer toolkit is full of TCG supplies and nothing else
this product offers the consumer a quick and easy way to play the TCG and try out new card combinations and strategies
collection boxes are exciting and usually come with multiple promo cards in addition to this they offer eye
appeal and this is a big deal for sealed collectors if you collect cards and if you're watching this I'm going to assume
you do you fall into one of these three categories Card Collector TCG player sealed collector and you don't have to
belong to Just One Tribe like some sort of sports team you can belong to two or maybe even all three of these categories
so each of these categories has its own offer a product made specifically for each of them card collectors like people
who want to build master sets and maybe send some in for grading they'll probably buy booster bundles people who
want to play the TCG maybe even competitively are going to grab the trainer toolkits or maybe the buildin
battle box because it has the best value for them there's a value proposition there and sealed collectors or investors
of Pokemon cards are going to buy whatever has the best return which is booster boxes collection boxes and
anything with promos printed in a low Supply this is sometimes called targeted marketing or Market segmentation and
there are some of us who do actually belong in all three categories in this case you might want cards TCG supplies
and something that can offer you a return on your purchase you know just in case you don't pull anything good in
this case the ETB might actually be your first choice in marketing this is called a bundling bias so if you do want a
little bit of each in instead of buying the trainer tool kit and a collection box and maybe booster packs you can just
buy the ETB it's easier and it's cheaper because it's bundled together and I touched on this a little bit in a
previous video and I would actually argue that this is the best product to buy if you're a beginner maybe you're a
collector or a TCG player maybe you don't know yet this product offers a little bit of both all right let's jump
back to the question I asked you earlier why would you buy an ETB because it's the only thing on the Shelf okay maybe
but actually it's because the value proposition of an ETB aligns with all three of those categories and the ETB is
specifically designed to do this it's an insurance product the Pokemon company needs something that is good enough for
everyone it has a pretty decent value proposition for each of us no matter which category you're in and so when you
get to the and everything else is sold out and there's just some etbs you say all right
at least it has something that I want and the box is nice too this is called situational marketing and this is
where you realize that all roads lead back to the ETB so the ETB is designed to prevent the consumer from leaving the
store empty-handed but the Pokémon company takes this even further every every year
we get a few different expansion sets one of which is a special set this is usually some hyped up Nostalgia heavy
Banger and to be fair it's usually pretty good like Pokemon 151 for these special sets they do not offer booster
boxes or individual booster packs this Narrows the product selection and the value proposition of an ETB becomes even
sweeter suddenly the price makes more sense for collectors and the demand goes up for investors and if you're a TCG
player special sets don't offer TCG focused products this is why etbs are almost always on the Shelf but the
Pokemon 151 etbs are not so it's important to note that I am a big fan of etbs and I highly recommend them that
video basically outlined why they seem to be the one product that fits all consumers now depending on when you're
watching this Pokémon cards might be hard to find we go through occasional hype Cycles in Pokémon where products
are sold out everywhere however this will pass and things will go back to normal like they always do in many of
these videos you see me make references to the Pokemon card products you find in Walmart or Target which might not be a
thing right now but when I made some of these videos it was as simple as just walking into the store and buying as
many cards as you want next we're going to Deep dive into collecting culture and how should
approach Pokemon card collecting it can be no it is it is overwhelming and having some sort of direction or goal
when you start is critical so this lesson involves an introspective look maybe some self-reflection on why you
collect and how you should collect in the future it was originally written as a budgeting video although it didn't end
up like that this hobby can get crazy expensive so this should help you navigate all the choices some of the
world's top col collectors each have very specific goals but they also have qualities that drive them to completing
these goals and eventually owning some of the most impressive Pokemon card collections in history and no they
aren't all rich in fact many are regular people like you and I so what does it take to be the very best like no one
ever was why are you collecting Pokemon cards it's not a rhetorical question I'm
actually asking you I built this flowchart that will go through step by step as a self audit so we can identify
which goal suits your collecting style best this started out as a how to collect Pokemon cards on a budget video
but during my research I found that budget big or small isn't what's holding us back it's the collector and the
pressure put on us here's the first decision we have to make what motivates your Collective on the left we have an
honest true love for the cards when I was a little kid I loved Pokemon Yellow on my game boy I still have the exact
Game Boy and cartridge right here sugam Mor's waterc color illustrations to this day are so inspirational to me and I
only got to open booster packs on special occasions so it made Pokémon cards very special to me at this point I
just want the most fun for my money and if you feel this way too you might take this path but you'll be faced with more
serious ethical questions like are you comfortable with gambling when you open a booster pack you are engaging in a
gambling mechanic this behavior is addictive and in rare instances dangerous if you keep spending to chase
a single card eventually outweighing the original cost of the card you're chasing back in the day the odds of pulling a
Charizard was about 1 in 108 packs but some Modern Chase cards are estimated to be 1 in 2,000 packs if you're
comfortable and you know the risks then you'll end up opening booster packs to get most of your cards following the
chart we see that this leads us to the most expensive way to collect and this might be a good time to mention that
this is just a chart that I made and I'm just a YouTuber you might feel like you're a combination of multiple paths
and that's okay in fact it's realistic the important part comes later when we talk about goals but for now if you're
not comfortable with the gambling aspect then you'll want to focus on trading and buying singles trading is the best
because it's essentially free so try to make trades when you can but buying singles is widely accepted as the
smartest way to collect from a financial standpoint today there are a lot of great cards for just $1 to2 every time
you open a booster pack and get nothing interesting you lose the value you paid it's even worse if you already have all
those cards opening some packs and then switching to a single strategy is popular It's the Best of Both Worlds but
it requires strong willpower buying singles also offers flexibility you can buy any card at a few different price
points a card graded at a 10 will be the most expensive obviously but you can go for a near mint raw copy a lightly
played one or even a damaged one if you really value that discount okay let's jump back to the beginning and try the
other path what motivates your collecting on the right we have a value based collecting strategy this is if you
want to build the most impressive net worth out of Pokémon cards there is something captivating about
holding a binder that's worth five figures so if this sounds like you there are three paths to take sealed
speculating and flipping now I won't go into too much detail but these are different ways that you can make money
by collecting Pokemon cards keeping sealed product that gains value over time or buying raw cards grading them
and flipping them into the profit is super common ways to build value I represent these as separate paths here
but in reality you'll be doing all of these three things the idea behind this type of strategy is that you can use
your profits to buy the cards you want making them in a way free all of these investing paths lead to the clock symbol
which represents time what financial worth you can assign this is up to you not me this could be the most expensive
way to collect or the cheapest depending on how you feel about it so if you're on a tight budget you can try flipping a
card to pay for a different card but but you need to consider your time as well it might make more sense to pick up an
extra shift at work or find a second job okay so maybe you notice that every path eventually leads to One path and
that's because any combination of collecting habits or strategies can eventually arrive at any goal the
flowchart was to provoke thought and reflection on how you buy your cards I ran a poll on my channel and almost
2,000 of you voted on one of these four goals one came out on top by a huge margin can you guess which
one if you have a fascination with a specific illustrator a specific Pokemon or collecting all of something then this
might be the goal for you over 50% chose this as their collecting goal some of the most fascinating sets in the world
started with personal goals like David person who's collecting every single card ever or Jesse Pang who's collecting
the gold star cards in pristine cgc 10s or Mr Amadeus who says right now I'm focusing on collecting first edition
trainer cards not all of them because I don't like them all but the ones I like the handdrawn art from those early
trainer cards has a special quality to me with a goal like this I can tell Mr Amadeus grew up like me absolutely
fascinated with vintage Japanese art style a popular one I see is one card of every Pokémon so completing the Pokedex
since there are over 1,000 Pokemon that means this goal would include collecting over a thousand cards but there are
sorts of rules you can set for yourself for example maybe you only want Hollow cards or maybe each card has to be the
most expensive card for that specific Pokemon a collector with this goal probably isn't opening booster packs
very often because that would just be a poor use of their budget or maybe you're goal is to have fun with your kids and
family or just build a deck and play the TCG which is totally respectable like CLR 977 who says I just want to play
with my sons we treat Pokemon like a board game and nothing more goal number two is Master set
collecting the reason this isn't in personal collections is because a master set is a
predetermined list of cards and you're probably going to be collecting cards that you don't really have a passion for
as a natural part of the process you might choose one specific set to complete or you might start with your
childhood collection and fill in the spaces that you're missing if you're crazy enough you might start with the
1999 base set and try to master set every single set up to the most recent release for one to achieve this they
would have to exercise a lot of discipline and use strategies like trading and buying singles they wouldn't
have time to flip cards on eBay a friend of mine Max Max City set out to collect the entire set of 1996 Cass prisms all
in a PSA 10 he didn't randomly acquire these he specifically sought out each one and the hard work paid off he now
has something incredible the third goal is one that I personally find very tempting the goal is to have one
specific Grail card this would be something like a first edition Charizard or Pikachu illustrator maybe a prototype
card or the test print Blastoise with the magic the Gathering back many of these are in the six figure range and
therefore are Out Of Reach for most collectors including myself but there are mid- tier Grail cards like the gold
stars or some rare promo cards now please forgive me but I'm going to use Logan Paul as an example here he set his
eyes on Grail cards Pikachu illustrator and first edition Charizard I know what you're thinking he's Rich so he can buy
whatever he wants and while that is true the fact is he set goals and he met them but most of us don't have millions in
disposable income so what do we do by automatically saying the words I can't afford it your brain stops working by
asking the question how can I afford it your brain is put to work this is a quote from Rich Dad Poor Dad by Robert T
kosaki what it means is that when you say that you can't afford something like let's say a PSA 10 first edition
Charizard you stop thinking about it you lose focus and youve move on to other things probably booster packs but when
you say how can I afford that Charizard the gears start turning and if you keep that thought at the Forefront of your
mind it can eventually happen if your Grail card is out of your price range that's kind of a good thing if you could
just go and buy it then it wouldn't be a Grail card would it as your collection grows and becomes more valuable you
could perhaps sell it all or trade the entire collection for that one Grail card 20 years from now and from here you
have leverage you could trade this grail for a different Grail when you get bored of it or
something if this is your goal you can't afford to lose focus forget about the new Pikachu or Evolutions if this is
your goal you can't afford to lose focus this last goal is a bit of a wild card money now collecting Pokemon cards
to make money isn't frowned upon this is frowned upon don't confuse the two some Pokémon cars are world class
Collectibles and that means that there's money in this hobby some people collected first edition Charizards and
sealed booster packs back in 1999 and now they have the opportunity to take care of their families for Generations
if you have a little one and you want to build a collection with them or for them over the next 18 years with the
intention to sell it off and pay for college then that's a perfectly reasonable goal to too look at the price
of a teamup booster box from 2019 that's only 6 years if you bought a dozen of these paying college tuition isn't a
joke anymore it's realistic it might happen and if your goal is actually the Grail card then this could be a step
toward that too but that takes an incredible amount of discipline experience and luck not to mention a
high cost up front maybe you really align with one of these goals a lot of people in the poll did but others went
down to the comment section because they felt like one goal didn't represent them accurately Hispanic Panic says so far I
want to collect every Crown Zenith card and as many of the gavor line as I can so they mostly align with the master set
goal for Crown Zenith but have a personal side goal of collecting gavor cards ninja stroll says basically
collect whatever I can with no end goal in sight and I'm sorry to pick on you ninja but this is actually the exact
problem we're trying to solve here building a world class collection actually means setting a goal and
holding yourself accountable the Pokemon company profits off of fomo and impulse buys so they're going to push that no
one is buying every promo every set and every Chase card that comes out so don't feel pressured so the biggest takeaway
for that video is to set a goal lots of people choose one Pokémon and collect every card of that Pokémon and I think
that's a great default if you don't have any other ideas yet I like Bulbasaur for example buying whatever you can find
will end up draining your bank account and it might feel like gambling your goal might be to complete a master set
or grandmas set which is our next lesson this is my 1999 base set master set if we check the very first card here we can
see that Alakazam is number one of 102 now if we flip a few pages and this is where jungle starts so let's ignore that
we can see that the last card in Bas set the water energy is 102 of 102 I've completed this set and
collected all 1002 cards so we call this a master set now let's jump ahead 24 years this is my Pokemon 151 Master set
well it's not a master set yet I'm still working on it but now we have reverse holos secret rares and even a card made
of solid metal the TCG has evolved but so has the terminology welcome to master sets
101 base set is an easy example because there's no fluff just the original 102 cards but a year later Team Rocket was
released this set introduced the first ever secret rare dark Raichu check out its number at the bottom 83 of 82 and
dark Raichu isn't just the first secret rare it was also the very first time a card was released in English before
Japanese in fact this card was made by Wizards of the Coast in America and it's rumored to have delayed the set's
release by 3 months so in case you don't know a secret rare is any card where its number surpasses the set number just
like dark Raichu here it's no question that dark Raichu needs to be caught in order to complete the Team Rocket Master
set today all sets have secret rares and lots of them Stellar Crown released in September 2024 has 33 secret rares but
some sets like paldi and Fates released in January 2024 have as many as4 secret rares which make up the
majority of the set you have to collect all the secret rares to complete a master set there's no argument here so
let's add that to our cheat sheet and next up let's discuss reverse holos reverse holos were first introduced with
the legendary collection in May 2002 interestingly this was an English exclusive set made up of reprints from
basad Jungle fossil and Team Rocket this was done to make cards more available and playable for the TCG but 20s
something years later has turned into one of the most collectible sets of all time so every card in this set has a
reverse Holo counterpart doubling the total of the set but the number doesn't change for example Al Kazam is one of
110 and the reverse Holo Al Kazam is also one of 110 this brings the total of the set to
220 modern sets all include reverse Holo Cards but not for every single card like the legendary collection if you have one
of the booklets found in an ETB product they will provide you with a key so you can see which cards in the set have
reverse holos but basically everything common uncommon and rare is going to have a reverse Holo variant and as you
can see I've included reverse holos in my Pokemon 151 Master set and yes these are a requirement for the master set so
let's add that to our sheet too next we're diving into promo cards most promo cards belong to their own set like the
black star promos this started all the way back actually at the beginning of the TCG maybe you remember receiving a
promo card when you went to see the Pokémon movie in theaters this Dragonite doesn't belong to the base set or jungle
or Team Rocket though it's actually number five of the Black Star promo set and the Black Star promo set itself can
be a master set but when it comes to the modern TCG this hasn't changed scarlet and violet has its own black star promo
set although these sets are massive and some cards might be impossible to get but this is where the line starts to
blur a little bit let's look at this Pokemon 151 product it comes with all sorts of goodies like booster packs a
playmat dice a coin and some promo cards Mew and Mewtwo here are actually black star promos which means they belong to
the Black Star promo set not Pokemon 151 and if this feels weird to you you're not alone it's weird I think most
collectors would consider these promos to be part of the Pokemon 151 expansion but they're not however I think most of
us would include them in our Pokémon 151 Master set personally I like to keep them at the end after the secret rares
like I said this is where things start to get blurry and this is a good time to mention that Master set isn't an
official term it's a word that collectors made up to describe a complete set so you might have a
different idea of what Master set means and if you disagree with me go ahead and comment it below so we can start a
discussion to help out the newcomers to the Hobby so for now I'm going to put the Blackstar Promos in the not required
column but we will revisit this before the video is over I promise we have to stay on track and next upep we have
unnumbered promos if Blackstar promos made things blurry unnumbered promos make things messy this is truly where
most of the confusion comes from but I'm going to try and break this down in a simple way let's jump back to the team
rocket set of April 2000 we have our 82 cards plus dark Raichu the secret rare for a total of of 83 cards but this
number gets bumped up to 86 if you want to include the unnumbered promos dark Gyarados dark Arbok and dark Charmeleon
dark Gyarados can be found with a pre-release stamp on it and dark Arbok can be found with a gold W stamp these
were both available through the Pokémon League but at different times and the third dark Charmeleon which also has the
gold W stamp was only available through an exclusive craft Foods giveaway that was only in Australia and to be clear
these cards are already in the Team Rocket expansion set but without any special stamps but they are otherwise
identical and this practice of just stamping regular cards and releasing them as promos spans the entire history
of the TCG way back in the Wizards of the Coast days all the way to today in the modern sets if we flip to the back
of my Pokémon 151 binder we'll see this little guy this Charmander looks just like the one from the main set but he
has a GameStop stamp this is essentially the same as he pre-released dark Gyarados to the team rocket set sorry
for stating the obvious but yes this Charmander was only available through GameStop there is a squirtle and a
Bulbasaur with stamps that I don't have yet they came from the Pokemon Center and Best Buy respectively oh and another
one is the EB Games Charmander 2o and it doesn't stop there Pokemon 151 is kind of notorious ious for unnumbered promos
Snorlax has a Pokémon Center stamped variant which was only available through Pokémon Center exclusive etbs Pikachu
and Eevee have Pokemon together stamps Voltorb has a professor program stamp and there's a cosmos Holo variant of
that variant Doo has a play Pokemon stamp and then a bunch of the cards have Cosmos Holo or reverse Cosmo Holo
variants and now to make things even more complicated some cards have slightly different Cosmos Holo patterns
and if you want to know more about this I made a video on it and if that was overwhelming I don't blame you it is
overwhelming like that Vol orb for example is so rare that it's much more expensive than most of us are prepared
to pay so to complete a master set are these unnumbered promos required well lately I've heard the term grandm set
thrown around and I think that's what we're looking for here it sounds kind of crazy to add another tier but with
dozens of additional cards there's a need for a higher level something to describe a master set that includes
everything so we can clear up all of this confusion and if I'm not mistaken the title of grandm originates from
chess a chess grandm is the highest possible title aside from world champion and it's extremely prestigious and
difficult to obtain so let's revisit that cheat sheet for a master set the total number of cards plus secret rares
are required all reverse holos are also required basically anything that can be obtained through a booster pack is going
to be mandatory to complete a master set Blackstar promos such as the Mew and mew2 I mentioned earlier are not
technically required because they belong to their own set but if you're not collecting the Blackstar promo set then
I would encourage you to include them with your master set like I have anything beyond this is going to fall
into the grandm set to complete a grandmas set everything is required remember this is the highest tier the
most complete a set can be this includes everything from the master set plus unnumbered promos all stamps all Holo
variants all Hollow patterns metal cards box Stoppers jumbos everything like there are literally no more cards to
collect no question that you are done and one of the most difficult grandmas sets to complete is actually probably
base set while this is one of the easiest Master sets to complete the grandmas set is close to Impossible you
would need to collect all four print runs plus variants that were only included in promotional products like
the trainer decks A and B A grandmas set of Japanese Bay set would even be more difficult I guess because you'd have to
collect the no Rarity cards which are extremely rare I can't stress just how difficult to complete a grand master set
is so I made this point in the video but I want to reiterate that the term Master set means many things if you were to go
look at the comments on that video everyone is dropping their own definition of Master set and what
mastering a set means to them lots of people skip reverse holos for example they don't like them and that's fine
it's important to build a collection that is unique to you and your tastes otherwise we would all just have the
same col cards the next video is a lesson on expansion sets so this should help put Master sets into better context
we take a look at all the expansion sets released since 1999 and go over patterns that have surfaced over the years I talk
about the difference between regular sets and special sets and more the thing about Pokemon card sets is that they
don't really explain anything for example which sets are special sets how long will they be printing the set for
and what does all this junk at the bottom of the card actually mean what is a set okay so each series
is made up of smaller sets so the first set of scarlet and violet is called scarlet and violet we call this scarlet
and violet Bas but after that they get super cool anime names like Paradox Rift or evolving skies and each of these sets
add additional cards either to collect or play the game and even though everyone just calls them sets they are
officially called expansion sets because well they expand the game each set gets its own set of products like booster
packs collection boxes etbs booster bundles and more however some products will contain booster packs from multiple
sets Pokémon started back in Japan in 1996 when the video games were released and to this day they guide the general
direction of the entire franchise each time a set of Mainline games are released a new generation of Pokémon is
revealed shortly after this the trading card game follows previously we were in the sword and shield era but now we are
in The Scarlet and violet era the pattern is simple and pretty easy to follow but if we go way back to the
early 2000s these sets weren't called red and blue gold and silver everything from Bas set to Skyridge is referred to
as the original series and follows a alongside the Game Boy [Music]
games from red and blue all the way up to Crystal Version after the original series came the ex series which ran
parallel to Ruby and Sapphire for the Game Boy Advance after this Diamond and Pearl came out in 2007 and this is when
the TCG adopted the pattern of using the game title although there is still some Nuance for example heart gold and soul
silver gets its own series but other remakes like Omega Ruby and Alpha Sapphire they just get a special set one
thing I get asked a lot is why individual booster packs aren't for sale for a particular set well that's because
they belong to a special Set You could argue that the first special set was Southern Islands back in 2001 but Dragon
Vault from 2012 is officially recognized as the very first special set back then special sets were small Dragon Ball only
had 21 cards if you count the one secret rare and double crisis from 2015 had 34 cards and they dropped the series logo
Dragon Vault was just Dragon Vault not black and white dragon Vault today special sets are much larger often
exceeding 200 cards and starting with scarlet and violet they now include the series logo special sets used to be rare
but now they're released semi regularly following Trends from Sun and Moon and sword and shield we can expect at least
five special sets in The Scarlet and violet series and some people like to use the set number to reference each
expansion so the first set of scarlet and violet series scarlet and violet base is number one pal and Fates is two
and so on but special sets are in between so Pokémon 151 is actually number 3.5 and Pres Matic Evolutions is
8.5 and I love special sets but they are mostly a marketing tactic if we look at the special sets we've gotten over the
past few years they're mostly designed to draw in the Gen one fans who grew up playing the original games they also
pack them full of amazing cards with pull rates that are just enough to encourage gambling and part of that
strategy is to withhold individual booster pack sales let's look at at 151 this set's product lineup was all boxes
and bundles with the best value being the booster bundles uh as long as you can get them at
MSRP you can't buy a single booster pack you have to buy multiple this is just their way of making you spend more money
another point of confusion is reprints unfortunately the Pokemon company doesn't disclose the number of cards
that are printed for each set and it's fairly incon consistent that way there's a sense of scarcity and fomo and
consumers are more likely to purchase products just in case they aren't restocked the following week these days
it feels like I'm always hearing about Pokemon 151 getting a reprint this means that the Pokemon company might have more
151 products made so your local Walmart Target or GameStop would get more 151 products in but no one really knows
until Distributors start allocating products to vendors what I mean is that some random Reddit comment isn't as
credible as the GameStop manager who might actually know something by the way when a set is reprinted the cards are
the same there's no difference between the first wave and the latter one there are a lot of questions surrounding
reprints and unfortunately we don't have a lot of answers but I always go back to the Pokemon company being a business
that wants to make money secondary market prices don't benefit them directly sales do a set like Pokemon 151
or surging Sparks is in high demand so they are heavily incentivized to print more cards but why do we see some cards
Skyrocket in price only to come down the following weeks this Pikachu for example shot up in price as soon as it was
released people couldn't find surging Sparks boosters because it was all sold out and since it's a special
illustration rare we knew it was probably hard to pull a lot of people choose to just buy the Chase card
instead of gambling for it this along with other factors contributes to cards being super expensive at the launch of a
new set and at this point you might hear rumors about the set being short printed or out of print and that's
misinformation or a fear-mongering tactic to manipulate the price of the card new sets will be continually
printed at least until the following set is released so don't drop too Grand Grand on that Pikachu just yet but
enough about that we need to discuss set composition if you feel like there's a new set coming out every other week
you're not alone it's overwhelming and when you have a busy life it's hard to keep track of what the heck is going on
in Pokemon basically you can expect a new Mainline expansion every 2 to 3 months now this isn't set in stone they
like to mix stuff up every once in a while but you can expect five to six sets per year it feels like more though
because we get a lot of news about release dates Japanese set releases leaks and stuff like that all the time
now I don't touch on the Japanese side of collecting often but it's essential to understand how the international sets
are made Pokemon cards usually release in Japan first and then a couple of months later they're released
internationally but it's not as simple as just a translation Japan and North America are two different markets with
different consumer habits Japanese expansion sets are smaller and released twice as often for example between May
and November we got Twilight masquerade shrouded Fable Stellar crown and surging Sparks within the same time frame in
Japan they got two Battle Master decks night Wanderer Stellar Miracle two Stellar terot type starter sets Paradise
Dragona and super electric breaker which all released new cards a lot of these Japanese these releases are going to be
combined for the international market these Stellar type teras sets in paradise drona and super electric
breaker are combined to make surging Sparks this is why we often know which cards are going to be released we get a
sneak peek into the future by observing the Japanese sets another difference you'll notice between Japanese and
international cards is the set identification system found in the lower leftand corner of the card Japanese
cards have a rather confusing numbering system but the international cards have an abbreviation of the set name for
example here's SSP which stands for surging Sparks the N refers to English if we check a Spanish card it has es s
for espanol now not all of this applies retroactively if we go back to the sword and shield series we can see that they
had set symbols this system wasn't great because many symbols looked similar and it was a lot harder to memorize
intricate shapes the Japanese cards never did this but their system was only a little less confusing some sets have
subsets this is a set within a set like the gallerian gallery or trainer Gallery if you open a booster pack of crown
Zenith you can pull cards from Crown Zenith obviously but also from the crown Zenith gallerian Gallery which has its
own number system and the Trading Card Game can also influence which cards are in which sets any TCG will naturally
have cards that are better than others and make it into to the mainstream meta because of this new cards have to be
developed to counter those cards that are doing too well and sometimes cards can be developed to support other cards
that are getting neglected now I'm not super educated on this but the Channel ptcg radio is if you want to get into
the nitty-gritty details and really nerd out and some cards even get reprinted so they're more available for TCG players
making it so they don't have to fight the secondary Market just to play with a deck that they like okay so far we've
only touched on Mainline expansions but we get lots of smaller mini sets from time to time some examples here would be
the Halloween trick or trade sets and the McDonald's collection sets which don't have any expensive Chase cards
since they're primarily meant for kids and the play Pokemon sets which can be completed by attending in-person events
if you take a closer look these sets are actually reprints from the mainline expansions but with New Hollow patterns
and sometimes stamps attracting dieh hard collectors who might be searching for a special variant for example this
Pidgey is a reprint from the Pokémon 151 special set but with an exclusive stamp on it you might want to collect this
single card to add to your Pokemon 151 binder but not the whole play Pokemon set but it wasn't always this way if we
go back to the watt SE era there were plenty of unique minis sets that contained new cards so norn islands is a
great example this was a set of 18 new cards with Incredible artwork and Hollow patterns released in Japan and then in
English 2 years later this was a really cool promotional set but actually had its own symbol and number system so
these wouldn't be categorized as black star promos which is its own set the first Blackstar promo was Pikachu in
1999 and after this they added an additional 52 with the final being suun in 2003 these 53 cards became the first
black star promo set this tradition has been carried on to the present day so there is little confusion each series
comes with its own Blackstar promo set that is drip fed throughout the term some are small like the 53 card wizard
set but some are large like the sword and shield Blackstar promos which is a whopping
307 cards japanese cards have a similar system but the black Stars replaced with a little box that just says promo just
like the mainline expansions but there was a time in the past when they did borrow the black star symbol for a bit
now I want to get into the more nitty-gritty parts of the Hobby and we're going to start with grading 101
this video covers card grading again from a bird's eye view and after watching you should be able to identify
different grading companies understand Raw versus graded values and how the secondary Market impacts
grading we'll talk about how to grade a card in a minute but first we need to discuss why people grade cards and it's
not as simple as you may think the biggest reason is probably resale value tens are where the money is made and
there is a lot of money to be made some people have built huge businesses by purchasing raw collections grading them
and selling the tens but there is risk involved unfortunately having a card graded really means you're paying for an
opinion there's a long running joke that your grader might have had a bad day and as a
result your card got a lower grade than it deserved even though this is a joke
there's some truth in here and we know this because there are thousands of examples online of people cracking slabs
open and resubmitting their cards until it gets a 10 because 10 sell for a lot more than nines Now resubmitting isn't
free you're essentially submitting another card therefore paying the fee again because of this companies that
utilize machine learning or AI to grade a card are on the rise the theory behind this is that you should be able to
resubmit a card and receive the exact same grade every time but most cards are still being graded by humans which means
it's a bit of a gamble another perk is that grading companies will authenticate your card so once it's in a slab you
know it's not fake most of the time unfortunately the more money the more corruption and scheming tend to leak
into the hobby now I don't want to discourage anyone from buying their first graded card but there are fake
slabs out there some labels will have a QR code on the back that you can scan and it will take you to the high
resolution scan of that card this way you can compare the hollow pattern or unique characteristics to confirm that
no funny business is going on and while you're on there you can check out the population report you see each service
has a pop report that displays how many cards have been graded and at which grades for example that Umbreon card
that everyone loves has been graded by PSA over 20,000 times and most of them got tens we can learn a lot from
analyzing a pop report for example the first edition Snorlax from Jungle has been graded over 4,000 times but only 47
have received a 10 so it's probably pretty expensive to buy a 10 by the way this would also suggest that it's a good
opportunity to make some money if you happen to have a raw gem mint copy at home my advice even though I said this
would be unbiased is to just enjoy it for yourself grade the card that you want to grade and if you see an
opportunity to make some money take it grading cards and selling them or trading them to obtain a card you want
more is very reasonable and acceptable let's start at the beginning the first thing you have to do is choose
a grading service they all offer different slabs labels pricing and perks however the industry is heavily
dominated by PSA they grade the most cards and tend to sell for the highest on the secondary Market the downside is
that they are a little more expensive and they'll charge you extra if you have something special like a first edition
Charizard for example a couple more are cgc and bgs also known as Becket both companies grade on a scale of 1 to 10
just like PS say but offer a grade higher than 10 these are pristine 10 or Perfect 10 meaning that these cards are
perfect in every way we'll talk more about these in the pre-grading section in this industry people tend to choose
one grading service and declare their loyalty to them but it's important to remain unbiased and send your cards to
whichever service is best for you a greater reputation is a very important factor people trust PSA and that's why
they have such a high value on the secondary Market there are a lot of young grading companies that are only a
few years old and while they might be very good at what they do they don't have Decades of trust from the public as
a result a 10 from these smaller companies isn't worth the same as a 10 from
PSA but that might not matter to you A specialized label might be the perfect fit for your personal collection and
that's okay it's all about what makes you happy this Factor also comes into play
if you live outside the US domestic options are a lot cheaper but resale value will suffer because Americans
won't recognize the Grading Company and before we move on someone may have told you not to trust one service or another
because they make mistakes to be clear this happens across the board people have tested these companies by sending
them fakes for example someone sent PSA authentic card with fake first edition stamps and they actually graded them cgc
recently graded fake play test cards and in the past graded cards as miscuts even though they were cut up at home with
scissors Becket has been accused of favoritism a lot like a lot this includes one person's submission
receiving 81 black labels which should be near impossible even from a statistical standpoint none of them are
perfect remember this is a service they provide they work for us so if you're looking to
maximize resale value PSA is a grading service for you otherwise it's worth researching each service and deciding
which one Vibes the best with you and remember some popular influencers are heavily invested in one company so it's
in their best interest to recommend them and sometimes slander others okay choosing a card or multiple cards
can be tough there's a lot to think about and it can get expensive the more cards you pick but I'll tell you a
secret it's not that big of a deal I want you to focus on getting your first submission out so you'll be more
comfortable with future grading decisions okay so you're flipping through your binder and trying to find
some cards to send off a few questions I ask myself are is this better in my binder or on display
and is this something I could potentially sell if it gets a 10 it's tempting to only send cards in that look
like potential 10 let's jump back to that Umbreon Pop Report all these 10 grades doesn't mean that all umbreons
are 10 it means most people send it in if it looks like a 10 this is because Umbreon is in high demand and a 10 sells
for big bux you might want to look up the raw value of your card then compare it to the graded value
all we're doing here is a little bit of research to see which cards have the highest return on investment in some
rare cases grading can lower the value of the card this sounds crazy I know but it's true a raw card that looks like a
10 can be more expensive than a graded nine I recently sent in this walking wake EX card it looked like it could be
a 10 but it got a nine and unfortunately it didn't really add any value so I kind of wasted the grading fee this is why
it's important to do your research beforehand but what if you just want to send in your childhood cards regardless
of value this is not only okay it's encouraged no one is going to frown upon the idea of grading a playground
Charizard in fact some people collect cards that get a grade of one there's something special about a card that has
visible signs of being loved these one grades can sometimes outperform twos or threes on the market but if you don't
care about value and you don't typically display your cards then it might be time to ask yourself if grading is even worth
it you're spending money and taking on a small amount of Risk by shipping your card in the mail it might be better to
just admire grading cards from a safe distance I mean thanks for watching the video but if you aren't interested in
grading then don't let others pressure you into it and if you pulled a huge card with
your kids or your partner or something and you're wondering if you should grade it hell yeah grade that puppy and
preserve that memory I think that's an awesome idea listen last year I got my original
Japanese starters graded now they didn't all get 10 which kind of sucks but I wanted to display them all next to each
other and I submitted them all at once so they have sequential serial numbers and I think that's really cool you might
not think that's really cool and that's fun because they're my cards this whole hobby is about collecting the things you
like but when you do find a card you like you might want to pre-grade it before sending it
in pre-grading is simply the process of grading the card yourself before sending it away this can help you determine
whether or not the cards might score a grade of 10 this is a very common practice and a skill you can develop
over time we're going to look at four Cate ories centering surface edges and Corners centering is the first thing I
like to look at we're going to observe the symmetry of the card and check if the image is centered on the actual card
stock there are tools you can get that help like this one and there are apps you can use that will calculate it for
you but with some experience you can eyeball it pretty well we're going to compare the top to the bottom and the
left to the right if one side is thick the other side must be thin sometimes looking at the corners can help to get
cgc pristine 10 label or becket's black label the centering has to be a perfect 5050 this means that it's perfectly
centered otherwise you can usually qualify for a regular 10 on centering with a 45 55 split oh and by the way
depending on which service you choose you'll want to check that company's grading guidelines while you pre-grade
they are a little bit different for example PSA is cool with a 4555 centering on the front but they'll
actually allow for 75 25 on the reverse and still give you a grade of 10 next we want to look at the edges sometimes
edges will look nice but other times they'll look rough or frayed unfortunately this is the result of the
manufacturing process so you'll sometimes see this if the card is packed fresh this should lead you to the
corners you should have a nice round shape with no whitening the card stock is white but of course it's covered by
the ink if some of the White shows through on the edges or Corners this is called whitening this is most commonly
found on played cards but unfortunately it can be a byproduct of the manufacturing process as well so again
some brand new cards can have minor whitening finally we want to look at the surface of the card front and back
Hollow foil cards are highly susceptible to scratches so some cards have texture and this is graded as well sometimes it
can be defective from the factory unfortunately so you want to inspect closely and make sure all those little
ridges and valleys are consistent and when we're inspecting the surface you might find it useful to use a magnifying
glass and utilize different lighting this will sometimes reveal small dents or creases unfortunately this kind of
damage will knock the grade down considerably with most grading companies I have a Blastoise set appears to be gem
mint but actually has a very small indentation knocking its grade down severely most grading services are going
to grade each of these four categories on a scale of 1 to 10 and then use those individual values to generate the
overall grade some even put the subgrades on their labels like Becket if they give all four subgrades a 10 then
you qualify for their Black Label one of the most desirable grades in the industry and keep it in mind that not
all cards grade the same a non Hollow doesn't scratch easily so it'll probably get a good surface grade but some other
cards have foil or glossy surfaces which can easily be damaged and each grading company has a
scale on its website so you can make an educated guess at your card's potential grade okay now find the raw price and
the graded price of your card and compare the two don't forget to subtract the grading fee this will give you a
good estimate of your costs and potential profit it listen this is going to feel
intimidating at first but you'll get very good very quickly with some practice pre-grading isn't a necessary
step if you're just doing this for fun but if you're shooting for a 10 then I would recommend it placing your order
and packing up your submission is the most intimidating step pretty much all services offer different tiers or
packages the faster you want your cards graded the more expensive it's going to be but you can get a discount by sending
in more cards once you've chosen the tier that works best for you it's time to back up your cards some grading
services are strict with how you package your cards if you package them in a way that makes it hard to unpack it could be
a liability for the company they don't want to damage your cards if they're forced to use scissors or peel sticky
tape for example if you screw up they might charge you extra or even send your cards back all although I've never
actually had this happen yet each company is going to have different packing rules so make sure you read
their Guides Online alternatively there are lots of YouTube submission guides for each service but if you do this you
are putting your trust in that YouTuber so just be careful out there be aware of that once your cards arrive at the
grading facility you should be able to follow through the grading process online in most cases you won't be
charged until your cards are graded and ready to be shipped back to you by the way you usually have to declare a value
and this is for shipping Insurance since grading a card usually increases its value the insurance needs to cover the
potential loss of your graded card not the raw card if you still find this overwhelming
using a middleman service is an option too recently GameStop has become a retail middleman service this is nice
because all you have to do is drop off your cards and you can basically Piggy back off of GameStop's
discount the downside to using GameStop or another middleman service is that you're putting your trust in someone
else and that's a decision you have to make for yourself but even after all this you
might be holding a card and wondering to yourself is this worth grading having your card graded is kind of silly you're
paying someone to have an opinion then encase it in plastic and then all of a sudden you can sell it for a lot of
money but it's also pretty cool to send your card away and have it come back feeling
like a little trophy you can put on display if you want to try it out I'd say go for it all right so grading can
get toxic well no let me elaborate the grading Community can get toxic once cards get graded more money is involved
and things tend to heat up if you're a beginner I would suggest grading with any company just to get the feel for it
don't send anything too valuable just yet I think it's important to break the ice with your first submission and then
you're going to suddenly understand a lot more and you'll be able to make educated experienced decisions the next
lesson is going to be pretty intense I'm going to run two videos back to back that explain Rarity symbols which is
historically complicated and confusing in this hobby the first video covers current Rarity symbols that were
introduced with the scarlet and violet series they switched things up then the second video jumps back to 1999 and we
carefully go over each symbol introduced over the past 30 years some people seem to love these videos and frequently
thank me for making it so easy so I hope that works for you a common Pokemon card has a small filled in black circle like
this as the name suggests it is the most common Rarity and each booster pack will net you a handful of them common cards
were introduced in 1996 when the TCG itself was first released you'll notice that Commons are made up of basic
Pokémon that have not yet evolved although there are exceptions to this Commons are usually non Hollow but can
be found as a reverse Holo another self-explanatory Rarity uncommon is slightly less common than common it is
represented by a small black diamond shape you'll usually get a couple of these per booster pack once again this
Rarity has been around as long as the cards themselves you'll notice that uncommon can be a basic or even involed
Pokémon and that most trainer cards are uncommon Rarity is not just for collectors when you're building a deck
for the trading card game you typically want between two and four copies of each card so Rarity is also designed with
card accessibility in mind okay this is where things get interesting the rare Rarity uses a black star like this and
be careful not to confuse this with the black star promo symbol which we will Circle back to later booster packs have
a guaranteed rare which means you'll always get one in a booster pack unless it's replaced by a higher Rarity a rare
can be Hollow or reverse Holo they used to be available as non- holos but this changed in 2023 with the scarlet and
violet expansion if it is a reverse Holo it will be in the reverse Holo slot not the rare slot of a booster pack by the
way the Japanese version of the trading card game do not use the same symbols instead they have English letters to
denote the Rarity C is for common U is for uncommon and R is for rare next up we have double rare which uses two black
stars as its Rarity symbol the Japanese TCG uses two RS these can replace the rare card in a booster pack and as the
name suggests are of a higher Rarity than rare if you've pulled any EX Pokémon lately you'll notice that they
are double rares double rares and every Rarity moving forward will be a hollow now some EX cards actually do have
texture on them but this doesn't change the Rarity symbol in any way it's still just a double rare it should be no
surprise that the pink star is specifically for the pink cards okay officially it's magenta not pink but you
won't see it anywhere other than the ace spec cards which are actually pretty hard to come across the Japanese TCG
uses the Bold magenta letters a c e as a rarity symbol you'll also noce notice that these cards are textured and have a
very specific Hollow pattern the gold star Rarity is called an illustration rare but the Japanese side of the TCG
calls it an art rare and uses the letters a r as a rarity symbol you'll instantly notice that these cards look
different the illustration goes right from the top of the card all the way down to the bottom these are pretty
versions of cards that are already in the set for example you might notice that Pokémon 151 has three chars ex or
that temporal forces has four walking wake ex all of the cards text is identical they have the same HP the same
moves but a different Rarity and card number this is done so the trading card game players can easily get cards for
their deck and then collectors such as myself can have fun chasing after the rare versions all of the Rarities moving
forward on this list are going to have less rare more attainable copies another thing you'll notice with the
illustration rare is that the card's number will have surpassed the set's total number this means that the card is
also a secret rare now it's important to note that secret rare isn't a rarity in itself and it does not have its own
Rarity symbol instead the secret rares are made up of multiple Rarities an illustration rare is just one of them so
anything surpassing the set number is considered a secret rare ultra rare looks a lot like double rare but uses
silver Stars instead of black for the Japanese version it will be Sr which stands for super rare in a booster pack
you can sometimes find it in the rare slot so these are also secret rares and usually come after the illustration
rares regarding the sets numbering system Ultra rares have their own look to them the artwork again goes top to
bottom covering the entirety of the card but the illustration isn't as detailed as an illustration rare for example
Ultra rares and anything moving forward is is going to have texture I can really try hard to get good shots of this but
nothing is as good as seeing this in person these cars have a thick kind of varnish over top and a detailed texture
is pressed into it and each illustration has its own fingerprint the texture will sometimes flow with the artwork and add
depth or highlight certain design choices after this we move into special illustration rares which is symbolized
with two gold stars or s for special art rare on japanese cards these are my personal favorites and many of you will
probably agree these are like illustration rares but with the texture there aren't very many of these per set
and they're pretty hard to pull both illustration rares and special illustration rares will occupy the
reverse Hol slot in a booster pack three gold stars means hyper rare the Japanese version calls this ultra rare denoted by
a UR which is different than in our ultra rare now these are the highest Rarity currently available in a booster
pack as you can see they are covered in gold glitter and on top of that textured these gold cards will end off the set
number there is nothing after them these can be found in the reverse Hol slot of a booster pack just like the
illustration rare and special illustration rare some sets will include a hyper rare energy card this is the
only time you will see an energy card with a rarity and a set number at the bottom but we're not done next up we
have shiny Pokémon these are Pokémon that have had their color palette swapped but identifying them is easy
because they have their own Rarity the Japanese Rarity symbol is an S but ours is a gold star again but this one isn't
filled in it's just an outline if you're worried that you're going to mix up the gold stars don't a Shiny rare will
always look like this and it even has some texture on it but you might get shiny ultra rare is mixed up and I'll
admit this one is a little bit complicated the Japanese version will have SSR which stands for shiny super
rare but the international cards our cards will have two gold stars but again they're not filled in just outlined
these look a lot like Ultra rares unfortunately but that is what they are they're shiny versions of ultra rare
Pokémon the Pokémon's color will be different and you can look for the gold stars that look just like the Rarity
symbol in the artwork and and of course the number will be different which reminds me shiny Rarities will always be
secret rares not all sets include shiny Rarities the most recent is palan Fates which was a special set released in
early 2024 we should also mention black star promos now I don't think this is officially a rarity but let me explain
it anyway at the bottom where you would usually see a rarity symbol will be a black star with the word promo japanese
cards will just have have a black rectangle that says promo and this is an abbreviated way of saying promotional
it'll also have a card number but no total set number however these are numbered one after the other and won't
tie in with the mainline expansion sets promo cards can come from anywhere from seeing a movie at the cinema to being
included in a special product maybe the GameStop employee will give you one you really don't know when or where you're
going to find one they're designed to be included with something whether that an event a product or a purchase online but
there's one place where you will never ever find a blar promo and that's a booster pack you know Common uncommon
and rare already if you're an OG you might remember this Triple Star Rarity if you're a person of more sophisticated
taste you might know about this Rarity no Rarity which is ironically extremely rare learning all the new Rarity symbols
today can sort of feel like learning a new language but don't worry my job is to make it easy
WC stands for Wizards of the Coast but everyone just says waty they were in charge of the international Pokémon
cards from 1999 to 2003 during this time we only had a few different Rarities the first big Rarity revealed though was the
Triple Star Rarity sometimes called The Shining Rarity because it is exclusive to shining cards from the Neo era this
is a set of 10 cards but the first two to be released shining Magikarp and Shining Gyarados don't actually have the
triple star symbol now there is actually a double star Rarity but chances are you've never seen it this is reserved
for old Japanese trophy cards the famous Pokémon illustrator actually has this too but this Rarity along with the
Triple Star Rarity have since then been retired oh and I should mention the white diamond and white star Rarities
these were only used for a few cards and only in Japan this was scrapped pretty quickly but then white symbols were used
on darker colored cards for visibility for example this retro energy the white diamond doesn't represent anything
special it's just a regular uncommon card and before we move on to the ex era a promotional card or just a promo card
does not have a rarity symbol instead it has a big black star that says promo on it older cards have a black star up near
the illustration window but newer cards have it in the lower corner where it can act as both a set symbol and a rarity
symbol if that's how you want to look at it moving into the ex era we get two brand new Rarity symbols the first is a
hollow star found on EX Pokémon now in this case the star is actually colorless or maybe negative you could say what
you're seeing is the Holo pattern that is usually behind the ink so I'm just going to call it a hollow star and this
hollow star can also be found on the reverse holos from many of the ex sets remember back during this time reverse
holos weren't nearly as common and disposable as they are today and on that note a reverse Holo is not a rarity it's
a type of card so a reverse Holo can be common uncommon or rare and the next is the gold star these are exclusive to
star Pokémon which are kind of like this generation's shining Pokémon they're extremely rare and pretty expensive if
you want to collect them today the Rarity symbol looks a lot like the hollow star but it is specifically gold
but unfortunately the gold star doesn't stick around for very long but to summarize what we have so far we have
the regular Rarity symbols but a level beyond the star is the hollow star and this is referred to as an Ultra rare so
the Diamond and Pearl era introduced level X Pokémon which are kind of like new cooler EX cards but they have the
same Rarity symbol so while they represent something new the symbol didn't change but we did get something
new kind of the hollow star now gets applied to secret rares for example let's look at the Stormfront secret
rares their remakes of the original Bas set Charmander Charmeleon and Charizard their Rarity symbols are follow Stars
just like the level X cards so they are Ultra rares however the Japanese version of these have white Rarity symbols so at
this point the hollow star Rarity is being used to represent ultra rare Pokémon cards in the heart gold and soul
silver era legend cards were introduced these have crazy detailed artwork that span two cards each and of course they
get their own Rarity symbol which is actually a gold star with a white outline this is a lot like the gold star
cards or The Shining cards where they have their own Rarity that is retired when the next generation of cards come
out so we never see this again after the legend cards and the ultra rares for this era are the prime Pokémon and
secret rares these have the hollow Star as a rarity symbol for the black and white era they brought back EX cards and
They carried on the hollow foil star we are now so familiar with however the Japanese ccg switched to a big fat
letter r for some reason black and white also introduced the first ever full art cards to the TCG full arts were a big
deal and deserve their own Rarity symbol so they just used the hollow star again but only on the first two after this
full arts got a new Rarity symbol which is a white star outline this is really similar to how the first two shining
Pokémon did not debut the Triple Star Rarity the secret rares from this era also use hollow stars like the EX
Pokémon because they are Ultra rares except for the Dragon Ball expansion which used nothing I guess because the
set is so small but these Hollow Stars would actually be Ur for the Japanese TCG which of course stands for ultra
rare X and Y actually carried on the EX cards this time but now introduced mega EX or me ex how however the Rarity
symbols remained unchanged on the international cards in Japan they switched EX card Rarities from R to RR
which stands for double rare break cards which are known as some of the most visually appealing cards ever created
get a white star outline as a rarity symbol just like the full art cards but wait the full art cards don't have the
white star outline anymore they switch back to regular Hollow stars for X and Y so only the break cards have the white
star outline in X and Y but finally we get something interesting this symbol means alternate art some cards were now
being printed with artwork that vary from their previous card even though all of the text is the same for example this
m Lucario EX is number 55 while the alternate art version at the end of the set is
55A now these alternate art cards still have the hollow star though they are an ultra rare Rarity but I wanted to
mention them because they play a part in the new Rarity system later on so with sun and moon we got rainbow
cards for a card to be a rainbow rare it would have to be a regular GX and a full art GX first and annoyingly all these
cards share the same Rarity symbol but thankfully the Japanese version clear it up a little bit a Japanese GX is RR a
full art GX is Sr which stands for secret rare and the rainbow GX will be HR which means hyper rare over here in
the English version I think most people just call these rainbow rares which has to be the most straightforward and
simple way to identify these but you could say hyper rare and also be correct but you could also say ultra rare and be
correct that's right a rainbow card is a rainbow rare or a hyper rare or an ultra rare oh and sun and moon introduced gold
cards which look amazing but basically suffer from the same thing as the Rainbow Cards and we also got to see a
return of shining Pokémon in this era so that means a return of the Triple Star Rarity right no just a hollow star again
but the Japanese version got its own shining Rarity symbol which I think represents some sort of cosmic star
thingy then we also got prism rares which oddly enough just get a regular star but the Japanese versions get a PR
which of course means prism rare and then this is kind of weird but the Japanese cards get some additional
Rarities like a TR Rarity near the end of sun and moon which stands for trainer rare but we actually got these as
alternate art cards the hidden Fates expansion had a shiny Vault subset a subset is a smaller set inside of a
larger set so if you open a hidden Fates booster pack you could pull a shiny Vault card anyways full art shiny GX
Pokémon use the full art Rarity symbol that is a white outline for some reason so you can see now that we have a lot of
different kinds of cards being introduced each generation but the Pokémon company doesn't like to
introduce new Rarity symbols as a result this huge selection of cards are all considered Ultra rares okay sword and
shield gets a little bit complicated and I can't help but wonder if this led to the Rarity system overhaul that we see
in scarlet and violet V and Vmax and V Star cards were the New Kids on the Block and carried on the hollow star
Legacy these are Ultra rares but we also got amazing rares this is a collection of nine cards spread out over two sets
and their Rarity symbol is the letter A with a color wheel behind it this closely resembles the textured splash of
art behind the Pokémon on the actual card so I guess this is what it took to finally get a new Rarity symbol but
after amazing rares we got radiant rares once again this was a little collection of 16 specialty cards spread over five
sets but this time they got the hollow Star as a rarity symbol however the Japanese version has a bold k Why K well
it's a translation of the Japanese word kagayaku which means sparkling or radiant now let's talk talk about the
trainer gallery or the gallerian gallery these are subsets for example let's look at brilliant Stars this set has a total
of 172 cards but once you count the secret rares it comes up to 186 however there
is a trainer Gallery subset this is an additional 30 cards with her own separate numbering system denoted with a
TG and the gallerian gallery from Crown Zenith uses GG and has a total of of 70 cards to the subset but they still use
the hollow star they're just Ultra rares so sword and shield was introducing a whole bunch of new ultra rare cards
meanwhile the Japanese TCG was actually building out a pretty good Rarity system that actually made sense if you check
one of the ETB booklets from this era you can see that they were pretending to have a well-developed rarity system but
the actual cards just didn't reflect this now the biggest hits of the sword and shield packs were alternate art
cards but they didn't say alternate art on them or in the book or on the official website so new players had to
go to Reddit for clarification and no one deserves that so the TCG got a rarity rebirth now
I've already made a whole video on the new Rarity system so if you want to go into more detail I'll add a link below
the like button so what happened is that we basically got a whole new lineup of rare symbols unfortunately there remains
some confusion but ultimately it's much better and aligns with the Japanese TCG mostly it now has a clear scale to
follow one star two star three star black silver gold this is how it should have been years ago I remember seeing a
shining Tyranitar when I was a kid and instantly understanding that it was a big deal because it had three Stars it's
intuitive and even kids get it right away and Alternate Arts no longer exist both the symbol and the confusing
colloquial term have been retired while these cards can still be considered alternate versions they are officially
defined as illustration rare and special illustration rare cards so then what the heck is this or this if you see a little
Pokémon silhouette instead of a traditional Rarity symbol that means the card is from a preconstructed deck and
this goes all the way back to the start of the TCG like the intro pack from 1999 which came with two half decks the cards
have a Squirtle or Bulbasaur on them but it's up where the set symbol used to be in the Rarity spot is the card's number
relevant to the deck this changed though and now the Pokémon silhouette is at the bottom where it can act as both a set
symbol and a rarity symbol okay let's finally talk about the juiciest of all Rarities
no Rarity that's right there is no Rarity symbol on these cards now you might already know that the first ever
Pokémon TCG cards didn't have Rarity symbols so in 1996 the TCG launched in Japan with expansion pack which is what
we call basack you know the whole first edition shadowless nonsense well none of that existed in Japan so japanese cards
did not have first editions so many consider the Japanese no no Rarity cards to be the equivalent of first edition
what I'm getting at here is that no Rarity is ironically the most rare but the no Rarity cards didn't only come
from booster packs no Rarity cards can also come from theme decks or other preconstructed decks such as a quick
starter gift set also many promo cards from this time in Japan lack a rarity symbol but overall no Rarity cards were
only produced in Japan in very limited quantities so they're highly sought after and of course there are some cards
produced today that don't have Rarity symbols such as trophy cards and energy cards well some energy cards actually do
have a rarity symbol but they are cards within the set like this psychic energy for example I hope that clears things up
but feel free to ask a question in the comments if you have any and I'll do my best to answer I usually do also this is
a great time to get up have a snack go pee and make maybe subscribe all right so moving on to the final stretch of the
master class I think it's time to kick back and watch some easier videos this next one is a short and sweet lesson on
finding the value of your Pokemon card this is the most common question I get the most common question I see on other
channels and it's the most common Reddit post Discord chat whatever every beginner asks this question so here's my
answer what is the value of of this first edition Charizard if you said B you'd be correct but a year from now the
answer might be a or maybe even C Pokémon card values change all the time so I'm going to teach you by the end of
this video how to properly value your cards I've got three examples from easy to very difficult so you should be able
to accurately value any card you come across oh but this this is fake okay here's our first example we need three
pieces of information from this card we need the name the number at the bottom of the card and finally we need the
condition of the card now just like any other collectible the condition is the most important factor and we're going to
give it a quick rating based on this set of guidelines and if you want to know more about this then eBay has some great
resource material as well as TCG player I will leave the link in the description for you but for now we're going to call
this near mint because there's no obvious damage okay we're going to take those three pieces of information and
type them into the eBay sech sech but we're not done yet one of the crazy things about eBay is that people can ask
whatever they want for their item what we're going to do is we're going to go and filter our results to the sold and
completed listings that way we can see what people are actually paying for the card right now so here we are at the
search results but we also want to turn graded to off in the filter cuz we don't want to see the price of graded cards so
here we are I'm seeing 142 155 uh 150 1 30 140 and these all have around $ 20 to $30 worth of shipping on them okay so we
got some numbers to work with the next thing I'm going to do is jump over to TCG player and cross reference these
prices okay and looking at the latest sales I'm seeing prices like 115 105 139 now these prices do not include shipping
so looking at all this I'm going to say this card is worth around 50 bucks all right example number two this one's a
little bit trickier and oh it's Blastoise we all know Blastoise so let's grab our information the name is
Blastoise the number is 2 out of 102 and I'm going to say near mint again because this is pack fresh and has no visible
damage now looking at the search results something isn't quite right I'm seeing prices from $7 all the way up to a
couple hundred so let's have another look at that card okay now I see that there is a stamp on it it's a Pikachu
and it says 25 so this card is actually from the 2021 celebration set sometimes Pokémon cards get reprints and
then they get a stamp on them this is really important because the card may be worth a lot more or a lot less than the
original print so you can't ignore this so now let's add celebrations to the search query once again we want to
filter out the graded cards and then we're going to turn on completed and sold items and now let's look at the
results I'm seeing 12 bucks $8 $10 $10 $10 some of these have shipping some of these don't so again I'm going to jump
over to to TCG player and yeah it looks like this card might be around the $7 to $10 range so that's what I'm going to
say if I was going to sell this card today I'd probably put it up for 10 bucks okay example number three this is
a tough one this is a graded mew2 now this is a base set card from 1999 so we have to look for a first edition stamp
and a shadow in this case there are neither so we're going to add shadowless to the search query in eBay but this
card is also graded by a Canadian grading company called mint so we're going to add that to the search query as
well after filtering for sold and completed I don't see anything to compare this to there's nothing sold
recently so now our only option is to compare this to a PSA graded card a PSA 8 and this should be okay because mint
grades harsher than PSA and I should mention the value isn't going to be as high as a PSA card mint has only been
around for 8 years and they don't have the reputation therefore their grading service doesn't add the same level of
value as PSA so here we are looking at the search results for a PSA 8 shadowless Mewtwo remember not first
edition and I'm seeing results in the 270 260 to 270 range so let's say this card is worth around 265 now remember
this is not PSA this is mint so I did some calculations off screen and mint cards usually sell for around 60% % of
what a PSA equivalent would sell for so let's subtract 40% off of that that means this right here is worth around
160 bucks I told you this one would be tough okay a quick recap you want the name you want the number and you want
the condition If It's Tricky make comparisons where you can and where it makes sense this method works because
we're comparing our card to sales within just the past few weeks so you know exactly how much your card is worth
today so as you can tell it's it's not easy to answer because it's nuanced I can't tell you what your card is worth
without knowing a handful of details hopefully that covers the vast majority of nuances and you can pass it on to
others all right so for the last segment here I'm going to show a series of videos on Pokemon card protection
storage and general care these are critical lessons to build value or interest essentially Pokémon cards
generally go up in value like many Collectibles so keeping them in mint condition is key
some of these videos are older so as I mentioned at the start please excuse me for being uncomfortable and green on
camera but the information is still good in fact it's important too so let's rapid fire a few short ones do you have
a favorite Pokémon card this is one of my favorite cards but if you look closely it has a dent on it it's damaged
resulting in a loss of value and then I found this same dent on another one of my cards and another one I bought
someone's old collection last year and when I was sorting through their cards I found that exact same Dent so now my
collection has this sort of Dent Dynasty you may have heard that three ring binders brutalize your cards and this is
only kind of true while these dents on my cards are from binder rings and we'll talk about that the truth is more new
monst I've been collecting Pokémon cards since 1999 trading with other kids on the playground in the classroom and we
all used three- ring binders it was totally normal back then but times have changed you no longer go grab a cheap
binder from Walmart but instead you actually invest in these beautiful portfolios for your cherished cards with
leather and zippers and when you open one of these up you'll notice that the Rings are playing High hide and seek so
how do Rings ravage your cards well you already know how these binders work so I'm not going to bore you with that the
damage that rings can cause actually comes from negligence I can store my cards in a three ring binder and they're
not going to get damaged why because I'm very careful and methodical when I handle my cards but if a friend or maybe
my niece goes through my binder and is browsing my cards will that is like handing the keys over to a
bulldozzer so for damage to occur the card needs to come in contact with the rank there's three different ways this
can happen the first is that the pages are not returned to the start position so this is what I call the start
position it's really the end position as well the pages are perpendicular to the spine and so in this position the Rings
really cause no threat to the cards in inside now when we're looking through the cards like this the binder is in an
open position and this is where things get a little bit hairy watch if I suddenly close the binder the pages they
get pinched between the Rings and the cover in other words our cards get pinched and this is the culprit of those
dents in my cards now we'll come back to this but the second scenario where cards can get damaged by the ring is when
you're turning the pages now we don't really just flip the page like a book we actually have to
pull at the page just a little bit a little bit of pressure and that allows the page to freely move around the ring
see if we drag it that that's where things can get uh can go bad because the cards are now being dragged over the
Rings and depending on how many pages you have in the binder how big the Rings are uh and a few other factors this can
bend the cards and this can really damage your cards so proper handling and turning the pages properly will prevent
this okay so the Third Way that cards can be damaged by a ring binder um is the pinch now if you don't know what I'm
talking about just ask your fingertips what they remember from grade school so this can happen when inserting or
removing Pages the more pages you try to insert and remove at once the greater risk this becomes if one page slides out
or goes out of place and you close those Rings they will pinch together and they will damage a card okay and this is
pretty gnarly this doesn't look good it doesn't feel good we want to avoid this at all costs
so this card that you saw earlier with the dent in it I actually purchased this on eBay last year the pictures looked
great but when it arrived it had this dent in it now I recognized this dent and now so do you so I reached out to
the seller and I said hey um thank you everything was packaged nicely but there's a dent in it it's a binder rink
dent and he insisted that it was not him because he used D ring
binders therefore the dent could not have possibly been his doing okay so I've heard this before and
I see this on Reddit a lot people seem to think that a d ring binder magically prevents any damage from happening to
your cards now I've thought about this and I believe that the people who say this and the people who have actually
used a ding binder are not the same people people okay all jokes aside yes that was a joke um d-ring
binders they'll help prevent this issue if you look here you can see how your pages are less likely to be pinched but
just because the ring is in the shape of a d does not mean that the risk is gone okay so yeah a lot of this is just
binder banter three ring binders are really not as bad as everyone makes amount to be but modern binders are just
so much better and totally worth the investment should we be wearing gloves when handling expensive cards on one
hand it's great on the other it's just not left I've done a bunch of research and I found that it's actually kind of
nuanced and there are some situations where wearing gloves might actually offer a helping hand so I'm not going to
bury the answer at the end of the video the answer is no you should not wear gloves when opening cards but the the
bigger more interesting question is why I searched Google forums YouTube and my own brain for all of the points for and
against wearing gloves I even busted out the microscope for this one so let's kick off with the compelling evidence
against wearing gloves so the whole idea here is that wearing gloves should protect your cards from your hands
damage that can lower the value or the perceived grade of the card when we see professionals handling really precious
items they're usually wearing gloves so take at face value this seems like an obvious conclusion but then I stumbled
upon this article by the Museum of London explaining that their paper in book conservators don't often use gloves
when handling objects such as old books so in that context wearing gloves to open a booster pack does make you feel
kind of silly I dove deeper and I found that lots of archaeologists and other professionals don't actually wear gloves
when handling ancient artifacts or books or like Viking swords for a handful of reasons but they do all have one thing
in common they all wash their hands first one of the points I see referen the most both for ancient artifacts and
trading cards is that you often want to feel the item that you're holding with your fingertips wearing gloves can
reduce the tactile feedback in your fingertips cgc cards made a video where they explain that you sometimes have to
feel a card to tell if it's counterfeit or not and from my personal experience I totally believe this I have handled a
lot of Pokémon cards in the last 20 almost 30 years and sometimes I don't even notice that they're fake until I
feel them there is a certain muscle memory that you earn over time when handling the same object I can tell what
an authentic Pokemon card feels like and I can tell when something is off and wearing gloves may get in the way of
this another thing they mentioned in that video is that you could leave fingerprints on cards now when it comes
to Pokémon cards I haven't really experienced this but if you're handling something like tops Chrome those are
fingerprint magnets so I ran a small experiment I didn't watch my hands for a couple of hours and I just did some
regular household chores I played with my cats and then I pressed my right thumb up against the face of a card
after this I went and thoroughly washed my hands thoroughly dried my hands and I pressed the same thumb up against the
same face of the card but on the other side and here are the results there's a very Stark difference here you
can see my oily dirty Thum print on the right but my freshly washed print on the left is almost invisible I can just
barely see it I tried again with a fresh glove and it had similar results to my washed thumbprint so then I popped the
card under the microscope here it's very visible and you can clearly see my thumb print if I turn the light off you can
see just how much dirt and dead skin came off with that single press gross on the left it's difficult to see even with
the light off the card looks relatively untouched the only reason I can tell that there's a thumbprint on this side
of the card is because I know about it and while we're here let's quickly look at my glove under the microscope this is
a Nitro glove and although the box says powder free I can see something on it I'm not sure what that is but this glove
is fresh and straight from the box so I don't know what it could be but otherwise the glove actually looks kind
of rough it's interesting to see I you think that this is rougher than just my skin could this damage a card okay so if
you do accidentally get a fingerprint on a card you can wipe it off you have to use a microfiber you have to use a brand
new microfiber okay not one from under your sink or from in your car it has to be brand new and it has to be the kind
that you get to clean glasses the scratch free kind but it can be done and lots of professional grading services do
this so another argument that I came across is that gloves can reduce your sense of pressure so they'll get in the
way and you can't really tell how much pressure you're applying to the edges of a card when you pick it up I'm kind of
back and forth on this one I I get it but I don't really know where I stand I used to work in an industry where I had
to wear gloves all day long and the pressure I applied with my fingertips was critical and I did fine also
surgeons wear gloves and that seems like a job that has little room for error so I think it's a great point to bring up
and it's something to keep in mind and it's all relevant really when it comes down to it if you are handling the edge
of an expensive card maybe the glove can mask the amount of pressure you're applying and so some gloves might
actually be rougher or harsher than human skin human skin is soft and Squishy and gloves might not be as soft
or squishy we just saw what my nital glove looked like under the microscope and that has me kind of wondering if
that's softer than my skin or not so there are three kinds of gloves that are typically going to be used for something
like this we have latex latex might be the best because it's really stretchy and it'll form to your fingers and
you'll get a nice tight fit and then there's Nitro which is usually used in place of latex uh for allergy reasons
and it has very similar properties and then we have vinyl gloves now these don't really stretch you may have used
them before they're like they're clear sometimes and they don't like form to your fingers so I would avoid using
these and then I've seen some people think that it's a good idea to use cotton gloves it's not just just don't
use cotton gloves I've seen some videos where people use gloves to open cards and there's one thing that really really
bothers me okay let's stop for just a sec and say that if you are wearing gloves to open cards whether it's right
or wrong or whatever they should probably fit right if they're too big you're definitely going to snag a corner
or damage your cards like for sure so it's a bit of a pet beef but yeah they should be nice and tight anyways I saw a
comment somewhere saying that wearing gloves during a live stream might actually build trust with your viewers
so people jump onto the live stream they see that you're wearing gloves you look more professional and they might stick
around and I think this is a pretty interesting idea I think it's a good theory but I have to disagree I would
argue that there's going to be more people who leave because you're wearing gloves and if they don't leave they
might comment and start warning you of the dangers of wearing gloves which could turn other people I think the
better strategy here is to not wear gloves and if someone says something just politely educate them and the
majority of your viewers will be on your side and another argument that I saw was that you might want to wear gloves if
you have long sharp fingernails now I don't know where I stand on this one because I've always kept my fingernails
short but I think that just not wearing gloves still might be better I don't know I don't know about this one it's
kind of interesting if you have long nails go ahead and leave a comment and and let me know what you think about
this because it's hard for me to have any input okay so it's probably better to just ditch the gloves and wash your
hands and I'll just say it again wash your hands and here's a good tip wash your phone too because if you don't wash
your phone and you wash your hands you're just going to get oil and dirt on your hands again after holding your
phone before you even get started oh and so we should probably quickly talk about skin types so there's oily skin dry skin
and then there's both which we call combination skin and each kind of skin is going to pose different risks to
opening cards for example if you have oily skin the obvious risk is getting your natural oils on the card Simple
Solution wash your hands just like my experiment earlier this solved it and when you do wash your hands some soaps
can be basic While others are actually acidic so make sure you get all of that soap residue off and then we have dry
skin so this actually has its own risks if your skin is dry it's rough maybe it's flaky and I guess this could damage
a card so if you have really dry hands you might moisturize which solves the issue but then we don't want to get
moisturizer on the cards so I would say use the minimal amount of moisturizer and before you handle cards make sure
that your hands are completely dry and all that moisturizer is soaked in a good tip here is that you can press your
thumb or your your fingertips up against a piece of glass or a mirror and then you'll see if you if you leave a
fingerprint behind kind of just like that uh that tops Chrome card earlier and if you don't have a piece of glass
nearby well you actually do your phone screen okay so the argument for gloves let's look at some scenarios where you
might actually want to wear gloves to handle cards and the first one is if you are sorting an old collection that
didn't belong to you so let's say for example you went to a garage sale and you purchased someone's old collection
and it was just disgusting like there's a bad smell coming from the corner okay I I don't want to get too uh too
detailed here but you know what I mean and to go through that collection of cards if you wanted to wear gloves
because you don't know what kind of Gunk or Grime has been on those cards for 10 20 maybe 30 years I don't think I would
argue I think gloves might be a good idea and another one is if you have rough hands like really rough hands so
if you lift weights you'll know that you get calluses uh but this isn't enough I mean like really rough hands some people
have been working construction or in an automotive job or something like that where their hands just get really really
rough for 10 20 30 maybe even 40 years so maybe this is a bit of a stretch but yeah if if your hands can cut glass then
maybe wearing gloves could be beneficial another scenario is medical conditions some people have medical conditions and
they might want to wear gloves when handling cards that's it if this is the case
please be respectful and the last thing I could think of is if your hands are really dirty and you need to open cards
like right now for some reason it's kind of funny and I know I'm reaching but this might be a situation where you want
to pop some gloves on top loaders versus card Savers which is better well they're not battling it out in an epic duel
they're more like the Batman and Superman of card safety they both save the day just in different Caped Crusader
Styles in this video I'll go over the pros and cons of each card Savers the first thing I want to point out is that
card saver is a brand name these are actually called semi- rigid sleeves but most of us just call them card Savers
kind of like calling all tissues Kleenex in reality this is the card saver one made by the company cardboard gold these
guys own the majority of the card saver Market but ultr Pro Becket voltax gem loader bcw and other companies also make
semi- rigids however they're not all the same for example here I have a semi- rigid made by ultrapro and you'll notice
that it's a little bit smaller now it serves the same function but whether this is better is well up to you Pros
the main strength of a card saver is its delicious sandwich-like properties you see these two planes of plastic are
actually in contact with each other so when a card is placed into a card saver it's held in place nice and snug this is
why card Savers are superior for shipping purposes the UPS guy can putt your package like a rabid Pikachu and
the cards still won't shift inside the card saver another point for card Savers is that PSA actually asks that you
submit your card in these that's right if you are sending cards to PSA you'll need to purchase some card Savers cons
however there are three main drawbacks to semi- rigid hold ERS the first is that they're actually semi- rigid this
means that they are bendable when you ship these you need to use two pieces of cardboard and sandwich the card Saver in
between them it's pretty easy to do and again PSA asks that you do this when you ship them your cards the second drawback
is that it can be a little bit frustrating to insert and remove your cards since these holders are so tight
you have to sort of bow the opening and then hold it open while also inserting the card and if you want your card to be
perfectly centered then you'll probably have to make small adjustments oh and don't laugh always put on a sleeve
before inserting and lastly card Savers are kind of annoying to store trading card
products tend to be made with 3x4 in Dimensions so card Savers won't fit inside deck boxes storage boxes ETB
boxes and other stuff you can get card saver binders but they cost twice as much as a regular binder now as a side
note you may have noticed these small pink tabs these are pull tabs that I use for easy removal of cards I usually just
use posted notes but you can use the plastic ones or some companies such as gem loader actually make sleeves with
pull tabs built in top loaders now on the other end of the spectrum we have top loaders these are known as rigid
sleeves because they're always stiff kind of like going through puberty these are pretty easy to find and made by a
handful of different companies I I find these to be more accessible than card Savers having seen them in all big box
stores like Walmart but that just might be the part of the world I live in Pros these are harder than card Savers and
the frame around the holder provides structural Integrity preventing any bending the material is thicker too
which means these could potentially offer more protection from potential puncture wounds or sharp objects there
also seem to be more products out there made for top loaders when compared to card savers
there are a lot more top loader binders on the market we have display frames stands and special boxes too cons one of
the biggest drawbacks to top loaders is the gap there is about a 1 mm gap between the two panes of plastic where
you slide the C this offers two potential risks one is that dust can gather inside the top loader leading to
scratches dust is dust but sometimes I'll get one in the mail with animal hair in it furthermore if something more
abrasive like a grain of sand gets in side you could really cause damage this is the dust trap the dust trap Gap No
Cap the other risk that the Gap provides is the actual movement of the card while card Savers hold the card in place Top
loaders do not it's pretty easy to see that the card will slide around if jostled a quick fix is to double sleeve
your card you should absolutely be using a sleeve in the first place but using a second sleeve can add that extra
thickness you need to prevent the card from bouncing around during shipping so which one do you buy both now I'm not
saying you have to go now and purchase both products right now but you should eventually utilize both top loaders and
card Savers in your collection again like Batman and Superman why not have both in your collection in addition to
this you could also try magnetic OneTouch holders all sizes of sleeves and any other neat Trading Card products
you find my point is don't limit yourself to one product because a friend or some YouTuber Told You So explore
your options and find out what's best for you okay so a quick summary semi- rigid holders are better for shipping
submitting to Grading Services however they arguably offer less protection outside of shipping and
they might be more difficult to store and a little bit frustrating to use rigid sleeves are better for using with
most TCG products storage for your own collection and they are more readily available however cards can shift inside
the top loader debris can fall inside potentially damaging your card and you should always use sleeves with each
product check this out there's actually a gap in the top of a top loader now in a previous video I called this a
collector's best friend and I think that's a pretty accurate moniker but you can damage your cards if you use these
incorrectly so so here are the dos and don'ts of using top loaders do double sleeve your cards before inserting them
into a top loader this is going to add extra width to your card so it won't be able to Rattle around inside you can
also reverse double sleeve your cards so you don't leave an edge exposed and that card isn't going to slide out during
shipping don't insert a card without sleeping it ever no matter what if you do this the card can still rattle around
inside and if there's something abrasive in there it's going to get get scratched in addition to this the edges and
Corners are going to get banged up a top loader does a great job protecting your card from external damage but you have
to remember the hazards that are already inside imagine a grain of sand somehow fell inside of this and you put a full
foil card in here and start moving it around yeah you and that card are going to have a bad day do store your top
loaders upside down this is going to prevent any of those pesky particles from going inside if you wanted you
could also display your cards in top loaders upside down although I will admit this is a little bit weird do use
pull tabs so you can buy sleeves with pull tabs built in or you can just use sticky notes and what this does is this
makes a little handle so you can easily pull your card out of the top loader without sticking your big stinky Thumb
in there possibly damaging the card or your nail cuticle don't keep your top loaders past their expiration date no
they they don't actually have an expiration date but once they're used and they're all scratched up go ahead
and retire them they could hurt your cards you can breathe new life into them by using them as card dividers or extra
support when shipping do ship your cards in top loaders now most would agree that card Savers are better at shipping but
topl loaders work excellent as well just make sure you double saeve your cards and use some painters tape to secure the
top loader to a larger more rigid piece of cardboard do like like the video if you've purchased any kind of sleeves or
TCG accessory you may have noticed PVC and acid free on the side of the package but what's up with this what is PVC why
do I have to look out for it and is there really acid in my sleeves I've been collecting Pokemon cards since
1999 and I still didn't really understand what all this acidfree stuff was about so I did the research and this
is what I found so what is it let's start with the term acid the term acidfree gained popularity in the 9s in
the sports cards Niche but it's hard to say exactly where the term came from because well it doesn't really mean
anything acidfree became a marketing buzzword used by manufacturers and collectors and suppliers to basically
describe a sleeve that won't damage your cards assd is very scary word so maybe that's why they chose it but at this
point collectors were finding that their old sleeves from their old collections were actually yellowing getting brittle
starting to break apart and even secrete a little bit of oil okay so acidfree is a madeup marketing term but why were
people's sleeves breaking down so back in the day sleeves were made out of polyvinyl chloride known as PVC or just
vinyl yeah vinyl like a vinyl record or the vinyl wrap on your car vinyl is actually pretty awesome it's used all
over the world but it has one huge drawback it breaks down over time so over long periods which can be
accelerated by the right conditions vinyl will start to become brittle it will yellow and start to break apart uh
sometimes it will secrete a little bit of oil just like in trading card sleeves so yeah vinyl sleeves or PVC sleeves
obviously terrible for your card cards but in the '90s trading cards hadn't really been around for that long so
people were finding their old collections from the 60s or 7s or 80s and finding that the sleeves were
actually starting to break down and damage their cards okay so how can you tell if your sleeves are PVC free or not
well for starters it's kind of hard to find PVC sleeves these days if you fought anything in the last few years
it's more than likely polypropylene or for short PP although I did hear some rumors that
during the pandemic some companies cut corners and they used PVC sleeves instead of polypropylene when
polypropylene was hard to get so you might want to take that into consideration if you bought sleeves
during the pandemic but if you want to check just in case just look at the packaging it should say acidfree or PVC
free or if you don't see that look for a recycling symbol If the symbol has a number three with a V below it you
actually do have PVC sleeves if it has the number five with PP below it then they're polypropylene so pretty much
anything TCG related is going to be polypropylene this is sleeves top loaders card Savers binder pages so
polypropolene this is an inert material inert just means that it doesn't break down over time so V bad and PP good so
what happens if you do use PBC sleeves well nothing for a while so if you actually do manage
to find some PVC sleeves that were manufactured recently or you purchased recently they should be relatively safe
to use PVC or vinyl it takes a long time to break down so they're kind of safe to use if it's not longterm if you're
putting your cards away for storage then I would ditch them and get polypropylene instead I did see some old posts and
comments suggesting that PVC can actually start to break down after 6 months but I couldn't confirm this uh
just to be safe though I wouldn't put my first edition Charizard in a PVC sleeve no matter what generally vinyl does take
a long time to break down like 5 10 or maybe even 20 years a lot of phone cases are made out of vinyl if you ever bought
a clear phone case and you notice that after a year it's starting to turn yellow well that's why the material is
starting to break down but phone cases are subject to heat direct sunlight and Rapid temperature changes and all sorts
of elements so I imagine this would speed up the process if you have some PVC sleeves that are in a humidity
controlled temperate controlled container then they should be okay for a long time but I mean whatever just get
rid of them and buy some polypropylene sleeves instead and you don't have to worry about it and if you have some old
PVC sleeves laying around uh just check them are they yellow are they brittle do they feel Oily to the touch if yes then
get rid of them if not then they're probably okay to use in a pinch okay one more thing that I keep hearing all the
time I see comments about this everywhere people say that the official Pokémon sleeves the ones you get in the
elite trainer boxes are not PVC free I thought hm that's kind of odd so I went and grabbed a pack that I have and it
doesn't say anywhere on the package or on the sleeves themselves that it's PVC free and I thought oh crap are these
actually not PVC free but then I checked the official Pokemon website where it clearly states that they are PVC and
acid free so don't worry about it okay so to sum it all up PVC sleeves are bad yes but only once they start to break
down if they haven't broken down yet you can probably use them if you're in a pinch but polypropylene sleeves or PP
sleeves they are like super available and affordable so I would highly recommend just getting some of those and
Pokemon sleeves are perfectly safe to use today we're diving deep into a dire aspect of card collecting whitening
learning the Mysteries behind whitening how it happens and the essential tips to prevent it whether you're into Pokemon
cards or other trading cards such as magic or Yu-Gi-Oh this information still applies so let's jump into it what is
whitening simply put whitening is is when the edge of a card sustains damage and the white card stock becomes visible
when facing the card directly when you're buying selling or just collecting Pokémon cards the condition is the most
important factor it's just the nature of a collector we want rare items in mint condition and we want it buried with us
when we die the tiniest scratch can make the difference between a nine and a perfect 10 when you're getting your
cards graded this can mean the loss of significant value sometimes even thousands of dollars one of the key
things to check for is whitening whitening can occur on the edges or corners of a card I suppose it could
occur on the face of the card but we would just call that damage not whitening when we say Whitening we're
referring specifically to the edges and corners of a card but what causes whitening let's explore from the edges
to the microscopic level causes of whitening whitening is due to premature wear on the card's edges resulting in a
noticeable fraying and whitening effect Pokémon cards made of layers of card stock start as large sheets that are
then cut up into individual cards the face and reverse receive a sexy varnish coating while the edges are left
unprotected and susceptible to wear there are four main culprits behind whitening poorly cut edges mishandling
moisture and improper storage let's break down each one poorly cut edges if the edges of a card are poorly cut this
could result in whitening sometimes we pull cards straight out of a booster pack only to find small amounts of
whitening and this is irritating for sure it's widely believed that this is due to dull blades from the factory back
in 2020 we saw a massive increase in the demand for Pokemon cards and the factories were printing cards at full
capacity we saw a lot of whitening that year so this is a factor when considering whitening but unfortunately
it's out of our control so we you have to live with it mishandling remember shoving Cards into
your denim Pockets or using an elastic band and snap around a deck of cards those were classic examples of
mishandling causing abnormal pressure to the edges creating whitening we were just kids of course but today we no
longer have that excuse again a small scratch or crease can seriously drop the value of an expensive card so we have to
be careful when handling our shiny pieces of cardboard this is why you sometimes see people using gloves or
shaking violently when they pull the first edition Charizard but this shouldn't be
intimidating it's pretty simple actually just be gentle with the card and everything should be okay when inserting
the card into a sleeve we are going to avoid applying pressure to the edges in most cases this won't cause damage but
now and then you'll get a tight sleeve or a tight card saver and you may want to push down on the edge when inserting
a card into a Bo pocket we want to avoid dragging the corners on the rough page unless the card belongs to your arch
nemesis obviously if you're inserting a valuable card into a binder pocket always use a sleeve there are a dozen
more scenarios where you could potentially cause whitening by mishandling the card but as a general
rule just be careful be gentle be mindful of the card's edges and you should be okay moisture the glossy
coating may protect against water on on the card's face but the edges are still vulnerable moisture absorption softens
the edges making them more prone to premature wear and whitening if your mom accidentally threw some of your cards
into the washing machine when you were a kid then you already know what water damage looks like but we are referring
to smaller amounts of moisture compromising the Integrity of the card stock along the edge if you or your kids
are big into cards then they are probably everywhere throughout the house the risk of water damage is always there
if a single drop of water lands on the face of the card you'll probably be able to just roll it off if you're quick but
if it touches the edge it will be absorbed and swell into the card stock almost immediately from this point
onwards the card is going to be very susceptible to whitening even though you may have not noticed the moisture if
this happens take whatever steps you can to dry the card and remove the moisture iner store stage cards must be sleeved
and stored correctly to avoid whitening don't laugh at this next part because it is not funny always use protection there
are dozens of different storage methods for cards all with different purposes but you should be sleeving your cards at
the very least sleeves protect the edges of your cards preventing whitening one thing I'd like to touch on here is the
Facebook Marketplace listings where you'll often see hundreds of cars just thrown into a box do you want whitening
because that's how you get whitening truthfully it's pretty darn easy to avoid whitening when it comes to storage
just take care of your cards and I get it some people just don't know parents grandparents friends relatives who
aren't into cards might not consider the edges when moving or storing them so if this is you please just take a moment to
not dump the Cards into a shoe box and don't shake the Box can you fix whitening unfortunately whitening can't
be fixed without risking further damage to the card I've tried we should talk about fixing whitening versus hiding
whitening now I love eBay for buying cards in my opinion it's the best Online Marketplace for Pokémon cards but I will
admit there is some shady stuff going on sometimes if you know what to look for you'll be fine for example some people
will try to hide whitening and I've seen this done with two different methods first is blue ink whitening is easiest
to see on the back of a Pokémon card where the dark blue ink provides a contrast to the white card stock but
what some people have done is gently coloring the white with a blue pen the other method is using a white background
another trick I've seen here and there let's try this place a card with exceptional whitening on a white
background and on a black background it really does make a difference if you're looking at purchasing a card and you
susp ECT this might be happening ask for a photo of the back with a black background but anyway the answer is no
whitening cannot be fixed your only option is to go back in time and prevent it from happening in the first place
preventing whitening the best defense against whitening is fully automatic Firearms I mean immediate sleeving and
storage in protective devices handling cards without sleeves will risk whitening if there are any accidents if
you're just a collector then the key is is storing your cards properly use some of the handling guidelines we've gone
over here and you should be okay now if you're a player of the TCG then things can get a little more difficult since
you'll be handling your cards often you'll obviously have your cards in some sleeves that are designed for play but
also consider your deck box or your carrying case and Pokemon cards usually have multiple variants of a card for
example the recent Pokemon 151 set had three different chariz RDX cards they were all ident itical as far as gameplay
goes but you want to refrain from using the extra expensive special illustration rare chariz RDX and just use the rare
one instead hopefully no one is using elastic bands anymore because this is punishable by death and if you're dead
then you can't buy more booster packs how whitening affects grading grading is the ultimate preservation method but
whitening can impact a card's grade even a slight amount of whitening may affect a card's grade companies like PSA have
strict standards allowing only minimal whitening for a perfect 10 grade other companies may offer a grade above 10
emphasizing the importance of a pristine appearance will a little bit of whitening prevent your card from getting
a 10 well it depends if we look at eBay listings or even records on the PSA website itself we can see that you can
absolutely get a 10 while having a little bit of whitening on the card but this is going to change depending on the
Great service you choose PSA is just one of many and you should choose the service that suits your needs best some
of the services are much more strict than PSA and offer grades higher than 10 such as a pristine 10 in this case
you'll want to be more strict yourself as you pre-grade your cards the rib test what is it well it's
exactly what it sounds like it's a method used to authenticate Pokémon cards we're looking for a black line and
that should indicate that your card is authentic no black line means your card might be fake a lot of people call it
the Black Ink layer when in reality it's not ink at all you see Pokémon cards aren't printed on paper or cardboard
it's kind of in between and it's a product called card stock it's made up of multiple different layers but it's
not adhered with glue instead it's adhered with that black line and what that is is a black graphite laminate
layer a this serves two purposes like I said it actually laminates and holds the card together but it also adds some
rigidity to the Pokémon card if we bend the card it snaps back into place to a degree of course fake cards do not have
this black graphite layer they're simply just images printed on paper and in some cases a sticker If it's counterfeiting a
foil card now the rip test is fairly conclusive it's quite accurate but there is one downside we don't actually want
to rip our cards in half so there are two other methods that you can use when Pokémon cards are manufactured they
actually come out on this big sheet the big sheet goes through a machine and it cuts it up into well cards so basically
if we look at the side of a Pokémon Card we're looking at the crosssection of that sheet therefore we should be able
to see that graphite laminate layer and sure enough there it is I think you're going to need a camera with a really
good zoom function or some really eyes but if you do look closely you can see that black layer without ripping the
card actually without causing any damage to the card at all one more method to authenticate is called the light test
grab your phone turn on the light and hold it behind your card no light should pass through if it's fake the light will
pass through why well we can actually credit this to that graphite laminate layer once again it stops most light
from passing through so it's actually a great way to authenticate Pokémon cards if you're still suspicious about your
card being fake look for really obvious errors such as incorrect spelling bad grammar incorrect energy cost or HP
values check the font and even the hollow pattern or the foil pattern in some cases sometimes what I like to do
is look up some eBay sold listings or maybe jump on TCG player and search up your card hold it up next to one of the
listings and just compare it's that easy does the car look the same can you find small details that don't quite add up so
we have three tests to authenticate we have the black laminate layer if you look closely to the side we have the
light test and we can also compare it online to other listings if your card passes all three of these tests then I'd
say yes it's authentic if it fails any of them then I would be suspicious your card might be fake so the rip test works
with Pokémon Magic the Gathering flesh and blood and lurana however it does not work for Yu-Gi-Oh or one piece or Dragon
Ball or Digimon or universus all right so key takeaways here avoid three ring binders if you can they don't cause any
damage to your cards but they put your cards at risk to be damaged wash your hands gloves don't provide any extra
protection as long as you wash your hands before handling cards now there are exceptions if you have sweaty hands
uh skin condition or something like long nails buy both top loaders and card Savers they're both great for different
applications acid and PVC free is nice but not necessary it takes a long time like over 10 years for PVC to break down
so if you're in a pinch PVC card supplies are perfectly fine if you're going to put your cards in a storage
locker or closet and forget about them then PVC free is going to be extremely important you can't fix whitening in
most cases sometimes you can gently fold back a small tear but usually it's a loss cause buy sleeves and finally the
rip test works but you shouldn't rip your cards for obvious reasons use other methods instead the best test to avoid
purchasing fake cards is if they're unbelievably cheap don't buy them and if you're still watching holy crap thank
you so much for your dedication if you want to support me consider becoming a channel member there's a button down
there it's just a couple bucks a month I'm not a rich YouTuber or anything your contribution literally goes to paying my
bills and supporting my family so thank you
Focus on the rarity system: Black (common), Silver (uncommon), Gold (rare), with higher stars indicating greater value. The best starting product is an Elite Trainer Box (ETB), which includes packs, dice, sleeves, and a promo card, making it ideal for beginners. Avoid websites like AliExpress or Temu due to high counterfeit risks.
The video outlines four main goals: personal collection (most fulfilling, collect favorite Pokémon or artists), master set (complete every card in a set, buy singles), grail card (target one ultra-rare card, like 1st Edition Charizard), or monetary goals (invest in sealed products). Start with a specific, manageable goal to avoid overspending and burnout.
A Master Set requires every card in the set, including all Secret Rares and Reverse Holo variants, but promos are optional. A Grandmaster Set includes everything—every promo, stamp variant, holo pattern, metal card, and jumbo card—making it far more extensive and expensive. For example, a Base Set Grandmaster would need four print runs and Trainer Decks A/B.
Use the Four C's checklist: Centering (front should be 45/55 or better for PSA 10), Edges (no fraying or whitening), Corners (no white showing, rounded), and Surface (no scratches or dents). A magnifying glass helps spot defects. Grading is subjective, so cracking and resubmitting is common but costly.
Check eBay Sold Listings (filter by 'Sold Items' and exclude graded cards for raw prices), averaging 5-10 recent sales. Cross-reference with TCGplayer’s 'Market Price' for trends. Always include specific details like 'Shadowless' or '1st Edition' in searches, and remember that grading company reputation affects value—PSA commands the highest resale.
No, the video advises against gloves for routine handling. Clean hands with soap and water are best because gloves reduce tactile feedback (making it harder to detect fakes), can snag corners, and are rougher than skin under a microscope. Reserve gloves for handling old, dirty collections or if you have medical conditions.
Use a modern zippered binder with side-loaded pockets and a soft interior—avoid three-ring binders due to pinching and dragging risks. Always sleeve cards before placing them in top loaders (for display) or Card Savers (for shipping/grading). Store top loaders upside down to prevent debris entry, and use polypropylene sleeves (recycling #5) instead of PVC, which degrades over time.
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